Relax and Enjoy Slow, Southern Style in Clarksville, Tennessee
September 26, 2018/Comments Off on Relax and Enjoy Slow, Southern Style in Clarksville, Tennessee
Story, photos by Cassie Hepler (unless otherwise noted)
Nashville, Tennessee gets all the fame. They also have that horrible reality show knock off of The Kardashians, The Cavallari’s which is like the Southern version of scripted, dramatic nonsense. But if you look about an hour Northwest of Nashville, there’s a slow, Southern style oasis that offers a much more relaxing experience. Rolling green hills, trees and nature abounds in this surprisingly funky little city full of hipsters and impressive growing gastronomy. It’s the perfect place to escape to – and yet close enough to Nashville to get your fix if you really need it. Small enough that it’s walkable, but big enough you can catch your Uber of Lyft when you need one.
Only one hotel dominates the downtown area and that is the Riverview Inn, privately owned with the most comfortable beds – you know, the elusive kind where you wake up in the exact same position you fell asleep. There are plenty of chain hotels on the outskirts but if you want to walk along the river with ease, this is the place to be. Word has it a huge renovation is going to make it an epic boutique hotel which will encompass and feature the riverside… we are envisioning a restaurant too that captures those pink and red sunset hues. In the meantime, the hotel boasts an indoor pool, basic included breakfast, fitness room and a computer with printer for business purposes in the lobby. There was a little “thought of the day” jar full of tiny tied scrolls containing inspiration quotes which we loved as well.
Thoughts of the day glass jar with tiny scrolls welcomed you at the front desk and included sayings like, “Be thankful for the bad things in life, for they open your eyes to see the good things you weren’t paying attention to before.”The check-in side where you park at Riverview Inn at sunset. Submitted PhotoThe indoor pool at Riverview Inn was packed with families for a children’s sporting event the time I was there. Submitted PhotoThe lobby allows a chill space for people to hang out and get the full speed Wifi. Submitted PhotoRight behind the lounge was the computer and printer for business purposes. Submitted PhotoEverything is walkable from Riverview Inn as seen here at the Public Square. Submitted PhotoAnd don’t forget the Riverwalk which we took soon after dinner the first night, keep reading! Submitted Photo
After a power nap (flight was at 4:20 a.m., I highly don’t recommend it because you never fall asleep early the night before like planned), my stomach was raring to go for dinner. For night number one, we opted to dive right into some Cajun food straight from New Orleans. Roux Americajun restored key historic features of the original building while adding some Nola style and introducing “AmeriCajun” to Tennessee.
Roux bringing Cajun food to the picturesque streets of Clarksville, TN.Moonshine cocktail can kick your behind if you’re not careful and not recommended for amateurs. Local Leatherwood Distillery‘s jalapeno moonshine is mixed with Arnold Palmer – half lemonade, half iced tea.The most delicious pockets of crawfish and pie dough crust called Crescent Pies, we could have eaten a plate of these empanadas.The medley of gumbo, boudin, jambalaya, red beans and other Cajun potions of flavorful fat, rice and spicy sausage with the Bayou Sampler.Go big or go home with this plate of all the fried seafood. Our host even tried fried oysters for her first time! Thibodeaux’s Platter comes with hush puppies, catfish, oysters, shrimp and fries.Greg and Theresa Shea (not pictured) are the creative minds behind the concept. Her Nola inspired artwork hangs in the background.This plate is HUGE and so are the perfectly lightly fried beignets and enough for a large family!The view from the second floor which is a speakeasy at night with a separate entrance in the back at Roux Restaurant.Once you pop out the back door of Roux, you come across one the main streets of Clarksville, Tennessee and unto this lovely fountain.A street scene at sunset in Clarksville, Tennessee.We walk our way over to Downtown Commons which is an outdoor community center with wifi – imagine that!Something the West can’t beat is original architecture like this church that stands out at Downtown Commons in Clarksville, Tennessee.An artistic wrought iron ball serves as a focal point near the manmade stream that flows nearby and children enjoy.Just so you don’t have to check your cell phone for the time, we were getting closer to sunset time in Clarksville, Tennessee.Always a sucker for water and sunsets, we venture onto the river walk right behind the hotel in Clarksville, Tennessee.The walkway looks inviting in Clarksville, Tennessee.The sunset looking pretty good in Clarksville, Tennessee.A view to our left and there is the bridge in Clarksville, Tennessee.
Our hostess with the mostest Visit Clarksville’s tourism boss babe Michelle Dickerson schools us on the river.
The mockingbird is the state bird and now has statues sprinkled about in Clarksville, Tennessee.As soon as we walked back up the steps to the Riverview Inn, the sky turned glorious shades of red and pink. This is a classic Tennessee sunset and signaled time for bed soon.After a good night’s rest, we were ready to explore and landed at The Looking Glass, An Alice in Wonderland themed restaurant and bakery in Clarksville, TN.Don’t let this casual interior fool you, there’s a chef behind the tiny door making magical food at The Looking Glass.A simple mushroom omelet with bacon and wheat bread was delicious at The Looking Glass.Switching up eggs benedict with salmon made this super creamy on those fresh based biscuits at The Looking Glass.I couldn’t resist the shrimp and grits (instead of biscuits and gravy) and am glad I did so. They were the best I’ve ever had at The Looking Glass with a slight kick of sausage and cheesy, buttery grits. Divine!We were kicking ourselves later for not coming back for the oversized cake like this birthday flavor at The Looking Glass.The exterior of The Looking Glass.
Now that we had fattened up for the morning, it was time to burn off some calories – not steam though as the humidity is high especially in the summer. We decided to explore DunBar Cave where once upon a time they would have cave parties at night which would have been so amazing! Nowadays, you can do candlelight yoga certain nights right outside of the cave and still stay cool as it reaches 56 degrees inside.
Dunbar Cave State Park is a 110 acre park in Clarksville, Tennessee, situated around Dunbar Cave.If you look closely in the middle, you can see a blue heron just hanging out in the water at Dunbar Cave.Dunbar Cave State Park is a 110 acre park in Clarksville, Tennessee, situated around Dunbar Cave.If you look closely, you can see a blue heron just hanging out in the water at Dunbar Cave.Walking to the entrance, there are so many photo opps and a walking trail for nature hikes.Inside looking out at Dunbar Cave area.Human being for scale who happens to be me, Dunbar Cave is impressive in its size.Vibrant green moss grows all around Dunbar Cave.Looking down from the lookout at Dunbar Cave.This area is roped off and only open to tours. Recently the park system has dubbed the cave unsafe to house parties – even though they’ve been partying for centuries.Dunbar Cave is the 280th largest cave in the world, stretching 8.067 miles inward. Standing here, it was about 60 degrees like nature’s air conditioning and excellent.
Since we were in the being amazed at nature tour, we decided to take a step into architecture with a visit to the Smith Trahern Mansion. Built in 1858 by a wealthy tobacconist named Christopher Smith, it is a classic antebellum style mansion that once overlooked the Cumberland River. Now it has a bit of modern day construction clogging the view, but still majestic nonetheless. And it’s available to rent for weddings, private parties or to live out your mansion dreams.
Constructed during the depressed pre-Civil War era, the architecture reflects Greek Revival and Italian styles.The home boasts grand hallways, an exquisite curved staircase and a widow’s walk on the roof. During the winter months, local organizations fill the home with over 20 Christmas trees decorated and sparkling.Come and sit a spell on the porch at the Smith Trahern Mansion.In 1998, the mansion was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.This winding staircase is picture perfect for wedding photography at Smith Trahern Mansion.The mansion has gone through many transitions like being chopped up into apartments at Smith Trahern Mansion.Natural light pours in the windows at Smith Trahern Mansion.Views for days at Smith Trahern Mansion just looking out, you can imagine many sunsets on the porch.The upstairs sitting room at Smith Trahern Mansion.One of the bedroom with gorgeous antique furniture at Smith Trahern Mansion.A lot of symmetry inside the Smith Trahern Mansion.
Next up on our list went even further back in history, to the Fort Defiance Civil War Park. Nestled up a hill and along a winding road, you can spot it by the Lincoln log looking fence flanking the front entrance. Once the site of a Civil War fort, this park offers an interpretive center with exhibits full of guns, swords, cutlery and memorabilia for all the history nerds out there.
Beautiful Azalea plants greet us at our next stop, the Fort Defiance Civil War Park.For the history buffs, canons galore adorn the walking path.Gorgeous views of the countryside at Fort Defiance Civil War Park.If there’s one thing to take away from Fort Defiance Civil War Park is that these black and brown faces helped win the war on slavery.Cool architecture at Fort Defiance Civil War Park and a quiet space for reading a book too.More rolling, green hills at Fort Defiance Civil War Park.Total canon porn at Fort Defiance Civil War Park and more nerdy fun to be had!Ready for a (lighter) lunch we made our way back downtown to Blackhorse Pub & Brewery, a traditional Irish pub feel with elevated food options. I know when I see my fave hefeweizen, it’s gonna be good.
Blackhorse Pub & Brewery was established in 1992 and also has a location in Knoxville, TN as well after initially selling it off, then repurchasing when the craft beer boom happened. It was fate!
Only room for a flight this time around, it was a delightful taste test from the day drinking hefe to the whiskey barrel TN Sour to stout to red ale. All A+ tastes, it reflects the brewer’s extensive beer education.Ready for a (lighter) lunch we made our way back downtown to Blackhorse Pub & Brewery, a traditional Irish pub feel with elevated food options.You can always find room for a fresh baked pretzel and beer cheese though at Blackhorse Pub & Brewery.Fried green tomatoes with a sweet tomato chutney was delicious and perfect pairing.A shredded steak salad on a lighter summer strawberry salad hit the spot at Blackhorse Pub & Brewery.
Fueled up and ready to go again, we made our way to the Downtown Artists Cooperative and I stumbled upon making some of my own art which I sprayed a little too black when finished. Oh, well! But I did score an amazing piece of locally made jewelry which was a steal. If you love to shop, this is the place to do so to find the most bang for your buck.
This woman was much more skilled than I was and taught me how to tear decorative napkins and kind of shellac them in glue. Then again, I think she had a lot more practice than me!One of my favorite buildings, the Customs House Museum & Cultural Center. Look at that roof!Right across from the Customs House Museum & Cultural Center, sits this man in front of the courthouse reading a newspaper… soon to be a thing of the past with a burnt out cigarette hidden in his hand.Of course there is a ton of rotating artwork in the Customs House Museum & Cultural Center main gallery and an art walk each month as well.They also pay homage to this adventurer Ben Clark at Customs House Museum & Cultural Center.Even a life-like statue climbing at Customs House Museum & Cultural Center.But there are also oddities like this oversized gavel at Customs House Museum & Cultural Center.The place is a maze of art and artifacts like this wrought iron door with Executive Director Jim Zimmer smiling in the background.Even a train set with volunteers who attend to it is available at Customs House Museum & Cultural Center.
Since we were already in the beer zone, we decided to make it a brewery day and moseyed along to the next stop, Tennessee Valley Brewing for one of the best and most surprisingly tasty beers I’ve had in a long time. I always like it when breweries take risks and the Irishman here took a tasty one.
Located in a strip mall with a food truck slinging burgers across the street, Tennessee Valley Brewing is unassuming and small.There’s always space for your growler mug in the back though at Tennessee Valley Brewing.Sampling most everything but the IPA’s at Tennessee Valley Brewing was good…Then we tasted Smokey & The Braggot, a honey mead beer that was outstanding and should win them some awards at Tennessee Valley Brewing. They also made a chocolate framboise which I was not into although Frambois was my go-to college fancy beer.Because there is a military base nearby, there are tons of veteran owned businesses in the area.
And while in the Bless America theme of things, we went over to the Star Spangled Brewery.
What is more American than making brew in a garage setting? A corvette rolling in for a shot!This is a super cool concept at Star Spangled Brewery it’s like a patio inside a garage three levels deep.A solid beer list but we were sad the What the Helles? was out – obviously their best beer at Star Spangled Brewery.But we made due with these three with the standout stout at Star Spangled Brewery and loved the sawed off shotgun sampler board.
Soon our bellies were growling again, so it was time to fill the tank! We kept the schedule flexible so we could roll with what our tummies told us and since there were sunsets and river views involved, we opted for dinner at Liberty Grill.
Liberty Grill is a casual American bar/eatery at Clarksville Marina with seafood & steak entrees, plus outdoor seating.The patio wasn’t open for this beautiful sunset, so we made our way indoors.Since I was on a beer tour, I tried the Yee Haw Dunkel and it was deliciously dark and smooth.A full rack of ribs with the sauce on the side goes best with a belly full of beer at Liberty Grill.Don’t forget the Southern sides like mac and cheese, green beans and sweet potato mash at Liberty Grill.Even the chicken cordon bleu was meaty perfection at Liberty Grill.We’re not sure what was in the bread or the butter at Liberty Grill but it sure melted in your mouth!
Lights out in the comfy bed made for a late start to the Farmer’s Market the next day. But as soon as you got moving and immersed, you were sucked in like flint! Like a moth to a flame, I was drawn to this band and couldn’t resist a little video.
Lovely music from Red River Breeze. I tried to catch more, but they took a well-deserved break at the end.
For some caffeine and a little nosh, we walked from the market over to Yada Yada Yada Deli.
Yada Yada Yada Deli or better known as Yada Deli in Clarksville, it has that New York City attitude and vibe for sure and quite the characters to go with it.
With a sassy, funky logo like that, you know it’s gonna be good and it was packed inside Yada Yada Yada Deli.They were all out of the London Broil croissant (drool) so we went with a ham, egg and cheese on multigrain bagel which was probably more healthy at Yada Yada Yada Deli.I had to try the chai tea at Yada Yada Yada Deli and it’s original for those tea snobs, it’s ten times better than Starbucks anyway.A shot of espresso for the road just like the Italians do – down the hatch at Yada Yada Yada Deli.This musician fell in love with us and included us in his songs at Yada Yada Yada Deli.
On the road again we went, but this time to somewhere even further in the woods, Historic Collinsville, Tennessee. Lovingly owned, curated and maintained by a sweet, but sassy elderly matriarch (and her behind-the-scenes husband), it will soon belong to the city. We begin the tour with videos so you can get a sense of this Southern sassy lass.
In 1974, self proclaimed “Type double A” JoAnn Weakley and her husband Glenn began their dream of rebuilding the settlement of Collinsville, a living history museum featuring authentically restored log houses and outbuildings dating from 1830 to 1870.
We start with the first house seen in the video above at Historic Collinsville, TN.
The settlement takes visitors from the earliest “first home” to the expansive big house on the hill with separate kitchen, living and sleeping areas. Each home and outbuilding has been painstakingly restored to its original condition and furnished authentically and some were even brought in and reconstructed.
The log cabin buildings are visually pleasing on the rolling hillside at Historic Collinsville.A larger house in Historic Collinsville.Many tool sheds house period appropriate tools at Historic Collinsville.Detail of a tool and the log cabin wood grain at Historic Collinsville.A traditional loom used to make rugs and more at Historic Collinsville.The main house with open porch at Historic Collinsville.The upstairs children’s room at Historic Collinsville with toys.Come and flash back to a tougher time and lifestyle in Historic Collinsville.Cooking in the kitchen would have taken hours for each meal at Historic Collinsville.Some antique jugs that collectors would die for at Historic Collinsville.Outdoor living and dining space at Historic Collinsville.The master bedroom in the main house at Historic Collinsville.The saltbox used to cure meat just like people do to this day in Historic Collinsville.The schoolhouse just as it was back in the day in Historic Collinsville.
Guests can stay and enjoy the rolling hills of Tennessee, take a quiet walk or a picnic under the trees. Slow down and explore one of the log homes, like the 1870 two-story, double-pen dogtrot house with attached kitchen. But in our case, we had to get back on the road as we had places to be! But first we had to stop for a quick bite, of course.
Welcome to your TN pit stop with perfect timing of a vintage car parked in front at Shiloh General Store.We got our BBQ sandwiches to go and were on the road again. In Tennessee, BBQ always means pork. This meaty guy was flavorful, not too sloppy and provided belly fodder for more booze.Millennial Matt Cunningham runs Old Glory Distillery Co. and grew up in Clarksville. He calls this “Clarksville’s Old Glory Distilling Company, and the products we proudly craft are a representation of the hardworking, patriotic, and unyielding character that embodies our city and this great country.”A wedding was happening that night at Old Glory Distilling’s event wing and there was a buzz in the air.We went for a little distillery tour and appreciated these barrels at Old Glory Distilling.Key components to proper distilling, no bathtub gin here at Old Glory Distilling.Here’s a medley of alcohol they make at Old Glory Distilling and ingredients inside.The top secret ingredients got switched up for the rum because Matt wanted people to say wow when tasting it at Old Glory Distilling.Labeling is still mostly by hand and one team member is known as the machine at Old Glory Distilling.A lazy, fat cat is a must at any brewery or distillery. This guy’s name is Martin and for my Instagram story, he showed us his butt. Cats!You can take a local boozy tour, a new option at Old Glory Distilling and surrounding outlets.We tasted our way through the moonshine (burn your eyeballs out good), vodka (clean tasting), rum (clear, not dark and lighter tasting) but we were blown away by this whiskey with its sweet aftertaste – no ice or mixers needed. I was hoping they had tiny plane (or as I call them purse) sizes or can ship… but no go. Will be keeping an eye out for their whiskey expansion hopefully nationwide.Up next on our boozy tour was Beachaven Winery, the only one in Clarksville, TN.The clouds were all show while we were touring and tasting at Beachaven Winery, but that week was the most mild they’ve had in a while.The front entrance of Beachaven Winery looking very German.Cool, funky signs pointing where to go in case you got a little tipsy lost at Beachaven Winery.Inside Beachaven Winery toward the tasting table in the back.A lot of award winning wine which is not surprising after doing a thorough tasting at Beachaven Winery.Where some of the magic happens at Beachaven Winery, we loved the bohemian rug in the middle of the room.All the grapes are grown on site and made in these huge steel vats at Beachaven Winery.Meet graphic designer and mistress of pours, Ali Pickett, the granddaughter of founder Judge William O. Beach.Their standout wine which was excellent in taste, presentation is the blush or sparkling rose at Beachaven Winery.They also have a long list of whites and reds from dry to sweet to syrupy sweet as some like it (good with fried chicken) at Beachaven WineryA more sophisticated blueberry that actually tastes like a light red wine and not cough syrup as most do. Don’t worry though sugar addicts, they have that sugary kind too at Beachaven Winery/After you have your $5 tasting which is waived with bottle purchase, you might need a snack and an elk stick (or chocolate) may do the trick at Beachaven Winery.To the left of this huge cask is a stage and picnic tables, perfect for Jazz on the Lawn which is a packed and anticipated monthly event that sadly we missed this time around.
We even took a minute under the picnic tables and trees to enjoy a glass of the blush (rose) without the bubbles this time. Soon our tummies were ready for more sustenance and since we did all the Southern style food so far, it was time to shake things up and try something seemingly out of the ordinary in Tennessee. So we went to Yellowtail Robata Grill & Sushi!
Can you guess what we were thinking at Yellowtail Robata Grill & Sushi?Well obviously more booze and Nigori sake (served cold) never lets the belly down at Yellowtail Robata Grill & Sushi.While we put in our order, this ninja was keeping an eye on the bar at Yellowtail Robata Grill & Sushi.Our bartender and server Ben was the best at Yellowtail Robata Grill & Sushi and didn’t steer us wrong from tasting the rainbow.Chefs hard at work on a busy, busy Saturday night at Yellowtail Robata Grill & Sushi.
We caught the chefs in flame throwing action, the newest trend on how to (dramatically) cook fish and seafood.
I couldn’t resist a seaweed salad to start and this one was huge, tangy and healthy at Yellowtail Robata Grill & Sushi.The sushi spread to make all other plates jealous. Every roll was amazing in its own right and the team took time to put this master creation together. Eel, tuna, shrimp, avocado, spiny sea urchin (not a fan too creamy and tasteless), salmon eggs (too fishy for me), octopus and more delicious flavors abound at Yellowtail Robata Grill & Sushi. Not feeling like raw fish? They have cooked sushi too, but you are missing out!Mochi is always a nice sized ending to the meal and our red bean pair was perfectly creamy, cool and light at Yellowtail Robata Grill & Sushi.
After that whirlwind of a day, it was no wonder that I fell asleep with the television on in that comfy bed at Riverview Inn (which I never do) after sorting through the thousands of pics and making some crafty Instagram posts of course. We were making Sunday more of a fitness day and less boozy as I was filming for an app and we had more places to explore.
A good day starts with a solid Sunday brunch at Strawberry Alley – and no, I did not sample the beer… this time. I loved the healthy buffet salad, watermelon and of course sweets that came with your meal.Because I am an adventure loving person and eater, I went all out German with the jagerschnitzel or the “hunter’s cutlet” which was not as fried and fatty as it seems. The breading was light and flaked off and the meat was juicy. I enjoyed the cabbage underneath, but passed on the slaw, making my ancestors confused.We did a slow drizzle on that excellent and filling chicken and waffles at Strawberry Alley. I was having food envy.
On a typical Sunday afternoon, locals will stroll Miss Lucille’s Marketplace and load up on goodies, shopping, popcorn and more while grabbing a beverage to keep them going through the whole warehouse with furniture gallery attached. I found some amusing named candles and delicious smells to take home (TSA-approved although searched later) of honeysuckle and Cuban cigar.
The clouds were once again grumbling on our Sunday fun day at Miss Lucille’s Marketplace.You can even do brunch here if you like before shopping til you drop at Miss Lucille’s Marketplace.But we opted the other way and I had the most delicious lavender hot tea latte to enjoy at Miss Lucille’s Marketplace.Our hostess with the mostest went for this strawberry slushie with chocolate and whipped cream drizzle at Miss Lucille’s Marketplace.Rows and rows of antiques, boutiques and things to delight the senses abound at Miss Lucille’s Marketplace.
After getting some stretching by working out shopping, we were trying to fit in an exercise video I was filming for a fitness app. We drove through the nearby beautiful parks and then realized that Upland Trail was the perfect place to film! Even locals don’t seem to know that the path doesn’t just go down to the river only. If you start walking in the opposite direction, it will take you all the way to a Instagram-worthy caged walking bridge. Follow along!
The walking bridge over the road below in Clarksville, TN.The road below the walking bridge in Clarksville, TN.We found a nifty red pagoda along the trail that was perfect for the video and since the clouds were threatening to pour, we had it all to ourselves in Clarksville, TN.But first we had to walk the length of it where we hit a cool looking dead end – and took some jump squat shots in Clarksville, TN.On our way back to film in the pagoda, we found this broken winged butterfly who we both fell in love with and was an excellent model in Clarksville, TN.
Our final and very delicious dinner in Clarksville, Tenn. was at The Catfish House. Located on its own rolling property with river views nearby, it made for a lovely dinner and luckily for us, the rain held out until we were both settled in for the night.
Fried okra and sweet tea is the go-to way to start your meal at The Catfish House.Attempting to stay somewhat on my healthy for the day kick, I opted for a salad and coleslaw in the background at The Catfish House.Because catfish is healthy protein, right? I went for the 3 filets. Maybe the hush puppies and french fries didn’t count as healthy, but those beans sure hit the spot. This was the best catfish I had in Tennessee, hands down. Lightly fried, barely breaded and no fishy taste or smell.As usual, I’m studying the menu and was curious as to what was chocolate cross pie. It tastes like fudge, but sweeter and is made with eggs and is all Southern style at The Catfish House. It was so sweet in fact, I couldn’t finish it… imagine that!The caramel pie was gobs of what tasted like smoked caramel which I’m normally not a fan, but smoked anything is always tasty at The Catfish House.We walked over after dinner to the swing you can sit on and see where your catfish was caught at The Catfish House.If swinging is not your thing, there’s always a gazebo at The Catfish House.Looking back at The Catfish House, the sky was finally ready to let loose.
A good, rainy storm always makes for excellent sleep in my world and my last night was no exception. Our hostess with the mostest insisted on taking me to breakfast the next morning and we popped by Plumb Line Coffee for a quick coconut milk mocha and crumbly biscuit breakfast sandwich. Soon we were off to the Greyhound Bus “station” run out of a pizza shop in Clarksville, Tennessee. It’s the only way to get to Memphis, TN without a car (no MegaBus here) and let’s just say some things never change except they have “sometimes” Wifi since college. That concluded the end of the Clarksville, Tennessee leg of the trip, however I have a feeling we will be back to tell some more tales soon… and if my whole family wasn’t based out of Pennsylvania, this would be where I would buy my writing cabin in the woods.
