Musical Memphis, Tennessee Resurrecting into its Glory Days

Story, photos/videos by Cassie Hepler (unless otherwise noted)

The irony of getting off the old school Greyhound Bus from Clarksville to Memphis, Tennessee with its shiny, new marble polished floors and then stepping into a Mercedes Benz did not sneak past me. For me, getting a smidge of work done on the spotty Wifi was better than driving although a bit longer (3 hours versus 5 on the bus). I was reminded that some things never change since college and that I am still not a fan (big surprise there). However the journalist in me still likes mixing and mingling with all walks of life and hearing the strange stories that everyone always seems to tell me: their deepest, darkest secrets and then announce afterwards in wonder, “Why am I telling you this?” To which I always shrug and say, “Everybody tells me their secrets.”

The Benz picks me up after a man selling Twizzlers – or was it gummy fish – said that all my chi is in my shoulder and how to properly roll it correctly using a Pilates technique to loosen it up. He was right. My shoulder was jacked up – from spazzing out at the sight of a cockroach back in Arizona – and then trying to stretch it with vinyasa yoga right before I left, which made it worse. He opened the door for me and was a gentleman even though I didn’t buy any candy, which is a Southern theme you see over and over again. The men say “yes, ma’am” and open doors, pull out chairs and scramble to make you comfortable – and feed you. Me and my Memphis host chatted on the way to Hotel Napoleon, the newest kid on the downtown block. Once a place people were scared to stay, it’s now getting fresh life infused into its old building – and its stunning.

Located in downtown Memphis, Hotel Napoleon is a luxury boutique hotel housed in the historic Winchester building dating back to 1902. Submitted Photos.

Hotel Napoleon is an Ascend Hotel Collection Member luxury brand of Choice Hotels. Submitted Photo.

I dubbed this the waiting on your ride spot as the little bench served as a good lookout spot. You can see the old building it was in the background at Hotel Napoleon. Submitted Photo.

Luna was the adjacent bar and restaurant where you could have cocktails, a snack, buy your own breakfast and at the end by the windows was a comfy couch lounge where I hung out late at night when working at Hotel Napoleon. Submitted Photo.

The king bed that was super comfy at Hotel Napoleon which is usually my only request in a nice hotel. Submitted Photo.

The windows looking out onto the street at Hotel Napoleon, my room was 420 which amused me. Submitted Photo.

The view outside my 420 room at Hotel Napoleon.

The bathroom was all polish and marble, mine had a slate shower with glass wall and was stocked daily with fresh towels, toiletries and a bath robe at Hotel Napoleon. Submitted Photo.

As soon as I checked in, washed my face and brushed my teeth, it was time for dinner at Catherine and Mary’s, home to more renovations in a fabulous old building and the spot where they played Elvis Presley‘s first hit, “That’s Alright (Mama)” over the loud speakers.

The first floor serves as an industrial-chic destination for chef-driven Tuscan and Sicilian cuisine, wine and cocktails at Catherine and Mary’s at the old Hotel Chisca, now apartments.

The interior of Catherine and Mary’s, we sat near the sun for perfect food photos at Catherine and Mary’s.

The bar area at Catherine and Mary’s in Memphis, TN.

Going for some refreshing German white wine to begin our meal, it was well needed after that long bus ride at Catherine and Mary’s.

The salami board at Catherine and Mary’s was packed with fresh, meaty protein.

Fresh mozzerrella with lightly toasted bread hit the spot with the wine, a nice snack in itself at Catherine and Mary’s.

I dubbed this the dancing quail and was giggling over it at Catherine and Mary’s. Shiitake mushrooms and buttery grits with gravy added to this juicy bird’s flavor.

Toasted brussels sprouts with bacon are always a hit, crispy on top and creamy on the bottom of the plate was a pleasant surprise at Catherine and Mary’s.

We also had to sample some of the homemade pasta starting with the tagliatelle with king trumpet mushrooms at Catherine and Mary’s. A mushroom lover, it could have used some more, but I always say that.

Trying gnocchi wherever I go, this was light and simple at Catherine and Mary’s and had the perfect amount of morel mushrooms.

Rose pairs well with most anything and is a fan fave. This Robert Turner rose at Catherine and Mary’s was light, not too sweet and a bit tart.

We had to sample some Southern steak which was seared perfectly pink in the middle and not too heavy sides at Catherine and Mary’s.

Blueberry pie at Catherine and Mary’s had that excellent crumble on both top and bottom and lots of blueberries in the middle – just right balance.

Creamy, tasty Panna cotta fit in the cracks and was not too heavy for dessert at Catherine and Mary’s.

Not house-made limoncello at Catherine and Mary’s, but still hit the spot and is said to help aid digestion.

As we kept discovering during the Memphis trip, we ran into musicians like this local music artist/rapper Franceschi and his son Garrison who requested a photo with his father at Catherine and Mary’s.

After a good night’s sleep in that comfy bed and falling asleep with the TV on (again), it was up and at ’em to go get the breakfast of kings at The Arcade Restaurant. Since 1919, Memphis’ Oldest Cafe is family-owned, offers delicious home-cooked food with a family friendly atmosphere that feels untouched since the 50’s complete with cup holders in the women’s bathroom. We beelined to Elvis Presley’s booth, or the mafia seat as I call it, in the corner pocket of the restaurant with your back to the wall and view of everything going on around you.

Sweet potato pancakes were the bees knees at The Arcade Restaurant with or without syrup they were that moist.

Going for a veggie omelet with turkey chunks was delish and those biscuits were heavenly fluffy with just butter or gravy at The Arcade Restaurant.

Off on my own and walking (which I needed at this point all my shorts were tight), I made my way over to the Civil Rights Museum in Memphis, TN. The red circle is where visionary Martin Luther King Jr. was sadly shot and is now a shrine.

Unfortunately for me, the museum was closed Tuesdays, but I got some nice street shots at the Civil Rights Museum.

I love a good quote and this one from MLK as an iron door is even better at Civil Rights Museum.

Fortunately there were other museums that were open like The Blues Foundation right up the street.

You can’t miss it by the statue sitting outside and records on the street at The Blues Foundation in Memphis, TN.

The steps leading down into the exhibit at The Blues Foundation.

Walking into your right is a ton of colorful musicians who made marks in history at The Blues Foundation’s Hall of Fame.

Don’t miss these coveted guitars before you head downstairs at The Blues Foundation.

You can lose yourself in displays and memories at The Blues Foundation.

We didn’t have much time to linger, but grabbed some eye catching displays at The Blues Foundation.

So many sequins and sparkles at The Blues Foundation.

Memphis, Tennessee is where a lot of rock stars were born or influenced at The Blues Foundation.

This was a cool interactive exhibit where you can choose and listen to your favorite blues bands at The Blues Foundation.

It also boasts a lounge space complete with prized piano at The Blues Foundation.

Let’s not forget the saxophone at The Blues Foundation.

On to the next museum I went and a trolley went by which are all still in excellent working order and only costs $1 to shoot across the city – cash only.

Statues of legendary performers from every race, color and creed cover the city of Memphis, Tennessee.

Pretty much every block has a statue in ode to a musician in Memphis, Tennessee.

Loving the look of these old buildings in Memphis, Tennessee.

Of course beginning near the famous Beale Street, a park and statue is dedicated to Elvis in Memphis, Tennessee.

Up next was the Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum with Gibson guitar building reflected in the background.

Our host joked that every package in the world goes through this huge FedEx building before landing at home in Memphis, TN.

The street looking down toward Beale Street in Memphis, TN.

Gibson guitar building takes up a whole block in Memphis, TN.

This is priceless information if you are not driving during your trip to Memphis, TN. A lot of museums will interconnect and make it easier to visit.

Like a moth to a flame, we are drawn to the neon lit signs at Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum.

We wonder how much this antiques are worth at Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum which is probably why they are locked away under glass.

Television like some will never remember at Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum.

When teen rebellion began at Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum.

Juke boxes and Coca Cola… no wonder people were always dancing at Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum.

Total ’70’s style with the bell bottom pants at Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum.

Can you guess who this fancy one piece belonged to at Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum? Hint: it’s not who you think!

Before there were MP3’s, music took up a ton more space at Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum.

Digital tours are the way of the future and gives guests a way to browse at their own pace at Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum.

The famous Beale Street in Memphis, TN during the daytime. It lights up at night and this is the place to find all your musical flavors.

Follow the trail of larger than life guitars to your musical delight on Beale Street.

You’ll find stars, but also musical notes carved into the sidewalks on Beale Street.

Directed by two obvious foodies from the museum, I made my way to Blues City Cafe on Beale Street.

A street scene on Beale Street and 2nd where I was told they have stellar food. It’s always good to remain flexible while traveling and listen to the locals who are happy to help tourists in Memphis, TN.

With a lunch menu like this, those prices can’t be beat at Blues City Cafe.

In the mood for more BBQ (always pork here mind you), this plate was fan-freaking-tastic at Blues City Cafe. Put some South in your mouth, indeed.

After I gobbled down that delicious dish above, I hauled my growing butt down to the river’s edge where the Memphis Riverboat docks and loads curious travelers from afar. I met a medley of Australians which oddly makes up a lot of Memphis tourism – to a couple that I taught how to use Lyft’s XL option (they had 5 pieces of large luggage on their USA tour) to an older couple on holiday – I kept meeting them and this river cruise ride was no different.

When the sun starts setting, this is the place to rock on the red chairs at Memphis Riverboats.

Walking down the windy, spiral platform was an experience in its own right at Memphis Riverboats.

A view to the left before boarding Memphis Riverboats.

There she is in all her old, Southern style glory the Island Queen for Memphis Riverboats. There was a photographer to my left offering photography to boarding passengers.

I found a lone seat next to a very busy set of grandparents with two little grandkids. One was fussing that he was scared and I told him we are like big duck on the water which seemed to calm his little spirits on Memphis Riverboats.

Under the trifecta of bridges some built by hand and some machine on Memphis Riverboats.

I loved the ornate iron work on the boat mixed with the view on Memphis Riverboats.

The city in the background looks tiny on Memphis Riverboats.

Soon we made our way under the bridge which put us in another state – can you guess what state?

The Bass Pro Shops Pyramid in the background on Memphis Riverboats.

Right after the river cruise, I hightailed it to the Peabody Memphis Hotel Duck March which honestly I had no clue what I was getting into but knew it was different and I like weird. Fortunately, I was able to drop off my sneakers, etc. at the concierge (which took my cell number and called me later to make sure I didn’t forget as I enjoyed some dirty martinis). Crowds of people then waited by red ropes. It was very fancy and oddly exclusive. The couple to my left were from Phoenix, AZ and were amazed I never heard of the ducks (hey, I’m a cat lover what can I say?). The ladies to my right were buzzed on wine and buzzing with excitement. I told them about my blog and then my Memphis host showed up and led us to our table front and center by the ducks and their marble fountain. Soon the buzzed wine ladies joined us and asked a medley of questions to our assistant duck master of the day (they rotate) Doug Weatherford.

My first glimpse of the Peabody Ducks in the posh and huge Peabody Hotel in Memphis, TN.

We had a reserved table in the front by the duck steps. Across from us, a family paid to have their little girl air the duckmaster in the Peabody Duck March.

No more pictures, paparrazi! The ducks soon swam away once the flash started going off at Peabody Duck March and that’s as close as you’re allowed near the fountain.

Our duckmaster for the day, Doug Weatherford, was full of great stories and fun tales at the Peabody Duck March. When asked where was the fifth duck, he said it was misbehaving and in time out. Later we found out he was a male duck harassing the females – typical!

Children line up patiently to watch the ducks waddle by and into the elevator where they have homes on the roof at the Peabody Duck March.

We were in a great spot for a full video, so we went with it at Peabody Duck March.

You could feel the excitement in the air as they ducks were set loose at Peabody Duck March.

Slowly they shake off and make their way down the steps at Peabody Duck March.

Here come the ducks down the steps at Peabody Duck March.

These ducks must have been taught the fine art of suspense at Peabody Duck March.

Finally they are on the move at Peabody Duck March.

Well, most of them anyway at Peabody Duck March.

Now they are looking like a group on a mission at Peabody Duck March.

The duckmaster making sure they go in the right direction at Peabody Duck March.

To my delight, we had a post march dirty martini and I fell in love with the tiny duck stirrer and was finally allowed next to the marble fountain at Peabody Duck March.

And if you really want to get in the spirit, try this delicious white chocolate duck at Peabody Duck March.

With a belly full of vodka and olives, it was time to soak it all up with some of the best fried chicken in Memphis, Tennessee. But before I could even get in the car, I met a man on tour with the Tommy Emmanuel guitar camp who invited me out to the show later that night… musical Memphis strikes again but this time with an Australian musician. But back to chicken! World Famous Gus Fried Chicken is not touting its own horn. They really are known for the best fried chicken and I can now see why. Not one to eat crappy KFC or the like, I want the real deal straight from the source and my mind was about to be blown.

The entranceway to deliciousness at World Famous Gus Fried Chicken. To the right sat a security guard, when I asked him why he said the restaurant hired him to keep watch. Memphis is not without its crime like any large city, but you can’t go living your life in fear!

Inside World Famous Gus Fried Chicken, it was about to get even more packed with pies piled high near the door.

Always a glutton for humor, this sign was amusing to me at World Famous Gus Fried Chicken.

Fried pickles to start were not too greasy or heavily fried, this was a good start at World Famous Gus Fried Chicken.

Collared greens – people either love them or hate them. Somehow they cooked out the bitterness and just left the green at World Famous Gus Fried Chicken.

I got the three piece chicken with sides of baked beans, coleslaw and mac and cheese with a Coke at World Famous Gus Fried Chicken and was in heaven. Super moist on the inside and just lightly fried on the outside, it’s near impossible to cook them this way at World Famous Gus Fried Chicken.

We went with the sweet potato pie (perfection) and the regular cross pie (like a custard) and stuffed our faces full at World Famous Gus Fried Chicken.

Remember earlier (scroll up) when I took photographs of the Bass Pro Shops Pyramid while on the river cruise? Well, our Memphis host wanted to show us all of the city at once. Inside is the Big Cypress Lodge which offers over 100 rustic, distinctively appointed rooms and cabins all about the outdoor lifestyle. Certainly worth it to poke around, there are fish and alligators and more in that funny pyramid. If nothing else, pay the $10 cover and go to the top of the pyramid for sunset. Bonus if you are eating at the restaurant, you can put that cover toward your meal (or cocktails).

Once you are at the top, there are two options for views at Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid.

It was hard to whittle down all my faves so get ready for all the sunset shots that made the cut at Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid.

In every direction, Memphis glows at Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid.

You can get a better scope of the city here at Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid.

You can also see how massive Memphis really is and sprawling at Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid.

Those hues in the sky make the bridges look good at Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid.

The river reflects the light at Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid.

Just to my right is part of the pyramid at Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid.

Another viewing point faces the river at Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid.

Soaking up those last views before it gets dark at Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid.

The Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid at night. By the time we left here, it was late and I had no energy left to go to the concert invitation so sorry gang if you’re reading this! Next time I’m in Memphis, I want to hear all the music. But I had a big day ahead the next day and wanted to make sure I did Graceland right.

The next morning, fellow Memphis photographer Adarryll Jackson Sr. met up with me at the hotel for a day of exploring and photography. Our first stop was Graceland, Elvis Presley’s grand, flashy oasis in the Memphis, Tennessee countryside. It was so massive and an overwhelming display of wealth, it deserves its own separate blog post! But after that whirlwind tour, we went to Sun Studio where all the greats were discovered – including Elvis and Johnny Cash.

Lunch was on our own so we went local to Sun Studio with this place across the street from Sun Studio at Sabor Caribe.

I needed something in my belly as I was used to eating nonstop and went for a veggie arepa that hit the healthy spot and stopped the grumbles with some iced tea at Sabor Caribe.

It doesn’t look like much from the outside but this place is a treasure trove filled with talent at Sun Studio.

Plenty of merch was waiting to be bought at Sun Studio, we liked this jean jacket.

Coffee, soda and tea were on draft at this bar inside Sun Studio.

An antique sign from an older era adorns the wall at Sun Studio.

A constant stream of people flowed through Sun Studio, some more eager than others.

When you grab a random lady who is rocking her look for a mini photoshoot at Sun Studio. Thanks, doll!

Just in case you need to get your Elvis sunglasses on at Sun Studio.

And we’re off, the tour begins every 15 minutes and somehow we made is just in time at Sun Studio.

Up the stairs we go with records along the way at Sun Studio.

A marble sign of radio hits at Sun Studio.

They were able to transport and recreate this radio studio at Sun Studio.

Wouldn’t you love to get your hands on these guitars at Sun Studio?

A better view of the radio studio at Sun Studio.

Lines used to wrap down and around the street to get inside this office at Sun Studio.

This microphone is where the magic for many amazing musicians at Sun Studio.

This tiny studio produced huge hits at Sun Studio.

Some of the legends adorn the walls at Sun Studio.

This moment happened in this exact spot at Sun Studio.

The drum set and more memorabilia at Sun Studio.

We then zoomed over to Crosstown Brewing connected to Crosstown Concourse, the sort of place you would want to be if their was a zombie apocalypse according to our Memphis host as it has everything you could possibly need in one large, revamped building. Crosstown Brewing is also a new kid on the block launching in February 2018 and killing it with online reviews. They offer guests to order from local restaurants and eat inside but are bouncing around the idea of food trucks, whichever works best for their growing and hungry beer lovers.

The building is massive and there is an outdoor area with picnic tables, games and more for when its cooler outside at Crosstown Brewery.

We love the large ceilings and open space feel at Crosstown Brewery.

The interior is indoor/outdoor and clean as a whistle at Crosstown Brewery.

An interesting and eclectic beer list at Crosstown Brewery.

We went for the Crosstown Brown Brown Ale: 4.7% ABV. 35 IBU. Up next was the Margarita Gose Gose Ale: 4.8% ABV. 12 IBU which was good for those non-beer drinkers.

Crosstown Brewing was founded by Clark Ortkiese and Will Goodwin back in 2015.

Praise Canada for these delicious beers at Crosstown Brewery.

A couple of kegs for your freezer anyone?

Just a couple of stainless steel beasts at Crosstown Brewery.

Bottling company from Colorado at Crosstown Brewery.

Rows of IPA and more which we tried – and it still tastes like marijuana nuggets – at Crosstown Brewery.

So happy to see the animal-friendly tabs at Crosstown Brewery to which they responded we like sea turtles too!

The merch was pretty sweet too at Crosstown Brewery. The beer shoot backpack and the beer earrings were winning!

We did a little walkabout over to Crosstown Concourse after some beer tasting and brewery tour next door.

Down the hallway, there was a nail salon and smoothie shop at Crosstown Concourse.

Always look up at Crosstown Concourse where people rent apartments way above.

Some super funky steps at Crosstown Concourse.

Rotating art like this trippy bear moves around the walls at Crosstown Concourse.

Good to see a lot of this back to natural food movement at Crosstown Concourse.

The funky red steps that they almost made black at Crosstown Concourse.

The top of the steps and exposed beams we loved at Crosstown Concourse.

Open seating for students studying and beyond, an excellent chill space at Crosstown Concourse.

Soon we were back on the road again for one last dinner – and certainly one to remember at The Beauty Shop which sounds like a hair salon and once was where Priscilla Presley had her hair done before it was made into an upscale restaurant. This whimsical new American eatery and bar touts vintage hair-dryer chairs and glass-brick booths with chefs slinging new twists on classic Southern favorites.

The exterior of The Beauty Shop Restaurant in Memphis, TN.

The sign lets you know it is not just a hair salon and you won’t find hair in your food here at The Beauty Shop Restaurant.

Inside the barista gives us her cutest pin up pose while serving up potent drinks at The Beauty Shop Restaurant.

The large family style table in the front of The Beauty Shop Restaurant in Memphis, TN.

The whole theme of the salon vibe in one photo and no, we don’t think they will dry your hair while you eat at The Beauty Shop Restaurant.

Certainly the drink to get here is the sangria cut with what we suspect is champagne makes it so addicting. The mojito was certainly outshined, but still tasty at The Beauty Shop Restaurant.

These are no ordinary wings at The Beauty Shop Restaurant. They were Thai chili style, sweet and spicy with a perfect crispy factor.

Not like the cinnamon Monkey Bread we’ve had back East, this is a divine herbal loaf dipped in melted butter at The Beauty Shop Restaurant.

Raw fish was refreshing and more Asian inspiration in the sauce for this thin sliced Hawaiian tuna at The Beauty Shop Restaurant.

Sometimes for dinner I will eat a half watermelon, so this beautini with salted melon really hit the spot at The Beauty Shop Restaurant.

Going for something way off the Southern mark was this trifecta of Asian inspiration at The Beauty Shop Restaurant with New Bedford scallops, shrimp (singular in my case) and fried pork dumplings. That lemongrass broth brought it to life and I could have eaten another bowl for sure!

Our Memphis host had the bacon wrapped superbly seasoned steak with excellent fries at The Beauty Shop Restaurant.

This pork put on quite a sweet show of flavor with its corn pairing at The Beauty Shop Restaurant.

A good, old fashioned seemed fitting in the hair dryer and had a sweet maraschino cherry taste at The Beauty Shop Restaurant.

We were told the cakes were otherworldly and the strawberry was so light and fluffy at The Beauty Shop Restaurant.

The chocolate cake was decadent and rich but still light and flaky at The Beauty Shop Restaurant.

And last but not least, the sorbet was a light and delightful homemade pallet cleanser to attempt some healthy options at The Beauty Shop Restaurant.

That was my last Memphis Travel night in the warm and welcoming Hotel Napoleon where the concierge taught me about “loosies” aka some places will let you buy just one or two cigarettes instead of a whole pack (brilliant, but illegal). I enjoyed the most satisfying, spicy sausage and egg breakfast burrito on the house in the morning with copious amounts of coffee of course (and still leaned toward the cappuccino maker in the lobby for a real pick me up). And soon I was off to the airport again, after the front desk declared I didn’t check out until the next day. I assured them sadly, yes it was time to go and if airlines were more lenient, I would stick around. But alas, it was time to leave musical Memphis, but those smash hit songs have been playing in my head nonstop since!

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