After my debacle of American Airlinestravel to Missouri, I was back to the constant air bus rotation of which one sucks less now and I landed on Southwest Airlines. Good ‘ol Southwest was my go-to back in the day but I strayed and got burned like cheaters always do. So I came crawling back and was pleasantly surprised they offer nonstop flights to Wichita, Kansas – from Phoenix only a couple hours in the air. This time my mom was invited to join me as my road trip buddy and see firsthand that indeed, press trips are NOT free vacations, just a lot of non-stop work. The seats are still first come, first serve so we didn’t fly together on the way there as I checked in last minute online. The key is to check in straight away at exactly 24 hours beforehand so you get in the A or B (first and second) boarding groups. The flight there was packed like sardines and fortunately, tiny 5-foot-tall mom was squeezed between two nice Midwestern young men. I lucked out with an aisle seat as I’m always over hydrated and running to the restroom. Once we landed, it was smooth sailing to get our (free) checked luggage (what a concept) and a short walk to pick up the car.
I explained to the Avis car rental desk clerk that our itinerary read “country roads” occasionally and since we all didn’t know what that meant exactly, he upgraded us to a Kia Soul – you know like the one with the hamsters driving it in the TV commercials. It seemed fitting and funny somehow. I was running on adrenaline after getting my energy back from deviated septum surgery so had some driving time in me still and it was still two hours earlier for us. So we drove to Salina, Kansas in the pitch black night so we would be closer to the first stop on the trip and less drive time in the morning.
Since it was dark driving there, it was rad to see all the green fields and blue skies in the morning. The wind was wicked and you could hear it howling through the night and into the next day.
Have you ever seen a dead body mummified? Me neither until last week at The Garden of Eden in Lucas, Kansas at the oldest intact folk art environment in the United States. The garden was created by Samuel Perry Dinsmoor, 1843-1932, who was a Civil War veteran, a teacher, sculptor and landscape artist in Lucas. He created “The Garden of Eden” on his property in Lucas and constructed over 200 concrete sculptures there which depict his views about Populism and religion. He also preserved himself in a mummy style coffin case with viewing window for future generations to see and all video and photography are strictly forbidden. So you have to visit yourself to see his ashen face, a memory I will never forget!
Located in the same town right down the only main street, it was off to America’s most artistic giant toilet at Bowl Plaza in Lucas, Kansas! What a weird way to go to the loo, we swung by and were laughing at the huge concrete toilet paper, mosaic and toy covered walls in the mens and women’s restroom and just sheer oddness of it all. The concept was the town needed a handicapped and wheelchair accessible john so the artists in town teamed up to make it a roadside attraction and experience. You certainly won’t get bored in that bathroom!
I found Waldo at a park in the tiny town of Waldo, Kansas! Waldo is a city in Waldo Township, Russell County, Kansas and as of the 2020 census, the population of the city was 30. So now we know he likes to escape to tiny towns where no one can find him! Just one of the many quirky stops available on our Northwest Kansas road trip. Make sure to visit Instagram @explorewithcassie and @cassiehepler TikTok to see more!
All that looking at delicious meat made me hungry so soon it was time to enjoy a cheeseburger in Paradise, Kansas! I’m not a huge Jimmy Buffet fan but I do love me some fresh, real beef burgers and french fries with a Coke. Classic Americana!
Dorothy returned to Kansas to visit the 15-foot-tall metal twister! Made by Tobias Flores and Danielle Robinson, faculty members at Fort Hays State University, it was dedicated on the 100th anniversary of the third tornado, which killed one-tenth of the town’s population of 100 people. The cyclone sculpture memorializes tornadoes that hit the town of Codell three straight years on May 20: 1916, 1917, and 1918. This odd timing event is in Ripley’s Believe it or Not!
The next stop was something I never thought I would see or experience in my lifetime but literally that’s the point of exploring! Check out the tiniest railroad system at C&R Railroad Museum that includes tiny people, over 57′ mountain range, 1,200′ of track, 94 engines, 170 cars and 34 cabooses. This intricate system has a complex switch system that as you can imagine could potentially cause chaos just like in real life! From mastermind local photographer Bill Clarke who built the C & R Railroad, the C in name comes from his last name and the R is for his wife maiden name Loretta Anna Reiss. The adjacent room houses the Clarke Studio Museum full of every type of photography equipment available as well as a treasure trove of old photographs. Put a conductors hat on and operate the train yourself!
For dinner, most places were closed on a Monday so ironically we had Mexican food, which is everywhere in Phoenix so you know I was going to be a food critic about it.
That evening we stayed at the Rodeway Inn & Suites in Phillipsburg, Kansas with all the truckers which was not my favorite place but honestly there’s not much hotel lodging in the area. There are however some pretty rad Airbnb options like farm cabins and guesthouses that I would look into for a more authentic stay experience. The next morning we were up and at ’em before the sun for breakfast and then back on the road again! The hotel did offer included breakfast but it looked questionable.
Soon it was back on the road to behold the majestic St. Joseph Catholic Church in Damar, Kansas with population of around 112! It was built in 1912, added to the National Register in 2005 and underwent a restoration project, completed in 2007 that included faux marble but you wouldn’t know unless I told you. It was designed in the Romanesque Revival architectural style and the doors are always open to the public, crazy to think about that option in larger cities. And best yet there is an Amen app available to download, I guess churches are also getting hip, eh? Blessed be!
Up next was the whirlwind that was exploring Nicodemus and Hill City, Kansas! Nicodemus is the oldest and only remaining Black settlement west of the Mississippi River with a whopping 17 residents while Hill City is the county seat of Graham County and as of the 2020 census, the population of the city was 1,403. Certainly some small places with big personalities and flavors we enjoyed as well as local gems like Average Joe’s, 2C Farmstore, Goddard Place, Jack Creek Pumpkin Patch, Graham County Art Museum, a huge gift basket and more.
Historic Nicodemus was established in 1877 and became a National Park Site in 1996 under President Bill Clinton. The Kansas Black Farmers Association (KBFA) is headquartered there and also hosts educational camps for kids in the summer. Historian Angela Bates gave us a great tour in cousin Karla’s red truck which was a nice break from driving for me … yee-haw!
We than poked around the town with a guided tour by Rose, the most energetic 82-year-old I’ve ever met! We told her we were pretty tired from the whirlwind touring but she was the energizer bunny showing up the whole town, running up and down steps and just so vibrant. I hope to be her someday!
At this point, I was about to just curl up in that park grass and take a nap so was happy to check in to Sleep Inn & Suites in Norton, Kansas. It started getting foggy and misty at this point outside and there was construction across the street so also thankful they put our room to the back of the building. I literally lay down on the bed, passed out with my shoes on (almost, mom took them off) and took a dead to the world nap. I woke up about 10 minutes before we had dinner plans and just threw on my shoes and went back out the door.
For dinner that night, we were invited to go to the Norton Eagle Lodge and since my mom was well versed in the Eagle lodges in Central Pennsylvania, she was excited. It’s kind of like a country folks country club but not… hard to explain so let me show you.
We woke up to the weirdest, thickest fog where you couldn’t see 10 feet in front of your face so we had to alter the sightseeing itinerary and also couldn’t keep up with the pace driving safely… if only we had a private jet we could have! Goals… anyway, we missed out on the Arikaree Breaks in Saint Francis, Kansas as there would be nothing to see – except fog so here’s a photo from the tourism website.
So our first stop ended up being Tri-State Antique Engine in Bird City, Kansas. The mission of the Tri-State Antique Engine and Threshers Association is to receive, collect, display, and demonstrate items from the past showcasing life on the high plains of Western Kansas. It was a huge lot of land with tons of long, metal barn buildings containing so many blasts from the pasts.
Bummed out about the fog blocking nature’s beauty, we proceeded onto to the next stop and crossed our fingers we could see it! This 24 by 32-foot Vincent van Gogh replica painting sits on an 80-foot easel weighing 40,000 pounds and is one of only three in the world in Goodland, Kansas. “Three Sunflowers in a Vase” is one of Van Gogh’s most well known pieces of art and pays tribute to the state’s sunflower. Cameron Cross’s Big Easel Project started in 2001 and is located in Goodland, Kansas as a roadside attraction. We experienced some weirdly foggy days but you can still see its epic size!
After I walked out of the church, I started to feel strange and dizzy and knew exactly what that meant. A good ol’ sinus infection was trying to creep its way into my still healing from deviated septum surgery sinuses…. so I hightailed it to find mom and let her know we had to go to the next hotel asap so I could rest it off or it would become ten times worse. We were supposed to visit the Colby Visitor’s Center which offers a unique building of Kansas limestone surrounding a grain bin but went straight to the Comfort Inn in Colby, Kansas instead so I could sleep off the funk. The hotel is located in a plaza with anything you can ever want nearby including Chinese takeout which was my saving grace after a scalding hot bath and 3 hour nap. Just don’t park under or near the trees. I have never seen so much bird crap on a car in my life and made for a particularly gross and funny morning clearing it off.
Down a country road sits Shiloh Vineyard and Winery, a small, family-owned winery, nestled in the plains of western Kansas. Founded in 2008 by owners Kirk and Treva Johnston, they bring their story to life through their exquisite wines, breathtaking venues, delicious Kansas meat, cheese and more. It feels like you are in the middle of nowhere and you can even stay in the Airbnb they have available with more coming as they expand overnights into the silos. Kick back, put your feet up and enjoy those sunsets. I wasn’t able to enjoy the excellent weather outside on the patio but did some light tastings inside the tasting room.
Off to Hays, Kansas we went next and it felt very similar to the small, old towns with amazing architecture in Pennsylvania.
When in Hays, Kansas, you have to eat at Gella’s Diner and LB Brewing! This revitalized small town is buzzing with a vibrant downtown scene nowadays full of art, boutique shops and more to explore. This space is a huge, sleek, bustling brewpub with live music and an open kitchen dispensing modern American grub including my first Kansas City steak, seared and cooked to perfection. The pumpkin beer was all sold out so you know it must be good. Put it on your road trippin’ bucket list!
After this meal, my internal battery was at 1% so we went to our last hotel of the road trip at Fossil Creek Hotel & Suites in Russell, Kansas which was acceptable however our window faced a gas station and there was a ruckus, a cat and other questionable things happening. Another bear nap later and we ate through our many, many leftovers and prepared to clear out our haul to pack into small suitcases for the next day’s travel. We even gifted some foodie things to the front desk gal who seemed very happy about it. The next day was a rough travel day for me. We stayed in the hotel as long as they let us until driving back to Wichita. Since we had hours to kill, we enjoyed some BBQ before we checked in the (bird crap covered) car which everyone got a chuckle about. The flight was connecting and long but at least we had a whole row together which I did lay down at one point as it felt like my ears were exploding. Fun times with a sinus infection! When we got home, mom started sneezing too and I thought oh no, not you too… then about 10 days of sickness later as she had Covid and I tested negative (twice). Fortunately my sinuses were still able to heal perfectly after some antibiotics. But looking back, it’s amazing we able to squeeze so much into one week! Would we do it again? Absolutely but with more places spread out and funky Airbnbs or cabins most likely. If you’re road trippin’ the best idea is to know roughly where you’re sleeping each night and a couple highlights each day. Then just go where the wind blows you… but not into the lake!