Hitting Up Virginia Beach, VA Early in the Season Makes Bonding with Locals a Breeze
Story by David Krakow
My wife Jamie and I were in Virginia Beach, VA the first weekend in March. Late morning our first full day, it was time to take a walk on the beach. Did I mention it was early March?
Jamie’s Fitbit was ready to sue us as our walk lasted only one block. In fairness, the visuals were perfectly engaging including rough ocean, generic beach sculptures and pretty condominiums. It was just short – and cold.
We have a friend who owns a time share in the Oceannaire Resort Hotel and week nine of the year happens to be their week. They could not go, so early March it was for us. With summery, beachside activities off the table, it was up to us to stay entertained for our extended weekend. And we were escorted by another couple, an old college buddy of mine, Bruce, and his wife, Ellen. Bruce and Ellen had paid recent visits to their doctors and they were in the early stages of a health kick that included staying dry from alcohol.
I never want to be pigeonholed as the type who can’t enjoy himself on vacation without a drink. I don’t need alcohol. I just really like it during those brief periods where life is shorn of responsibility. So does Jamie. So at risk of rubbing our bacchanal in our friends’ faces, we drank… in the room, at our meals – well, not breakfast – day and night. Knowing that our friends are as fond of drink as Jamie and I, my paranoia surmised that perhaps they wanted to conduct a little psychological manipulation. Regardless, they abstained and we did our thing.
The Oceanaire pool is two experiences in one. First, you hit the hot tub. Jamie and I would bring our vodkas, ironically enough, in the cups she uses for her health shake. You sit and sweat and get your social on with the other couples and then roll over into the pool to chill, taking in the sights of the ocean right outside the window. In warmer weather, there’s a patio with lounge chairs just in case you don’t make it to the beach which might be more fun but is less private. There is another pool at the adjoining Ocean Beach Club and a gym up on the 17th floor. In case you didn’t assume, there’s a view of the ocean.
Virginia Beach is a funny place. The streets may be empty of visitors off-season, but there is a core of locals that keep the local bars and restaurants humming. So you leave an empty street and walk into a bar with 150 customers. Your first assumption is that they live there since you never seem to see them entering the building.
Exhibit A of this phenomenon? Pocahontas Pancakes. Exhibit B: Murphy’s Pub.
Pocahontas Pancakes, across the street from the Oceannaire, is only open until 1 p.m. off season, but since breakfast is its specialty, that was fine with us. The Food Network once proclaimed Pocahontas pancakes Virginia Beach’s best and, since they are the only ones I’ve had, I am highly disqualified to judge. However, I’ll state this unequivocally. As good as they are, I’d place a bet that they might be the best in all of Virginia as fluffy and fulsome as they come. Though I did not test this theory, I bet they’d taste good without the syrup. Also fine was the french toast, especially the combo with eggs, sausage and bacon. But breakfast can’t last all day and fortunately, there are several places for lunch and dinner that combine atmosphere, great seasonal menus and what seemed like mandatory friendly service.
Our first dinner was at Manninos Italian Bistro. The crab bisque was zesty and rich. Jamie had the Pollo Marsala; she loved it. The texture, the tenderness, the herbs. She said the wine was not nearly as overpowering as it can be with this dish. The Scampi Fra Diavolo (shrimp scampi) was so good that I kept eating past the point of full. The marinara worked wonders bringing out the garlic and herbs and the fettuccine was perfect.
The second night was The Oscars night, so we stayed in our lovely, modern two-bedroom suite. There was a large kitchen that the four of us shared and a small kitchenette in Bruce and Ellen’s room just in case. And though they went mostly unused – again, early March – it’s a great perk that both bedrooms have a deck overlooking the ocean. Bruce made linguini with clams which happens to be Jamie’s favorite, so none of us missed going out. Give me a good meal, a couple vodkas on the rocks and The Oscars and I’m good to go.
There’s plenty else going on without leaving the building. Off the main lobby, the Ultra Craft Cocktails lounge has an intimate, living room atmosphere that is a perfect way to bridge the time between day and evening activities. But here’s a better bridge: the lobby level pool. I love lobby level pools (the Pool at Harrah’s in Atlantic City, N.J. is my favorite Jersey Shore beach amenity). There is something about the way a facility’s entry space is enlivened by people partying in pools that I love. Don’t even get me started on swim up bars!
There are also some nice, nearby excursions, especially if you have a naval or aviation bent.
Just 20-25 miles to the west is Norfolk, VA with its Naval base, maritime museum and well-known botanical gardens and zoo. On Virginia Beach’s outskirts is the Military Aviation Museum with its aircraft from both World Wars. But aviation is a clear and present attraction and distraction right on the beach. Thanks to the F18 pilots that train at nearby Oceana Naval Air Station, you can witness – and hear – an aviation show on regular intervals. It is loud and awe inspiring.
Our last night in Virginia Beach, VA, we hit Chops VB which, as one might expect, peddles its steaks proudly. Though they ran out of Jamie’s chosen main course, this was a great getaway meal. The pork chop was cooked perfectly and defined succulence. The sea scallops, chosen by both ladies, had parmesan cream and smoked bacon on a bed of spaghetti squash and was loved by the entire foursome. Just as good, pound for pound was the Wedge salad and salt and pepper calamari with fresh basil aioli.
As a coffee shop fanatic, I was thrilled to spend a couple mornings at Perked Up Coffee Cafe where, seriously, every employee seemed to know every guest’s name. Not mine, but the locals. Actually got in a little time with a book while Jamie worked out back in the room. They keep copies of the local paper on a table by the entrance in case you don’t want to pay for one or only want a quick check of the sports scores.
Within a ten minute drive is more shopping, a nice big Target, a movie theatre and more to explore. There are plenty of nearby amenities. There’s a small shopping mall on Laskin just a 10 minute walk from the hotel.
Here’s the litmus test: would I take the five hour drive from Philadelphia, PA to return during a warmer season with all the other places to go? The answer is yes. Jamie’s Fitbit is giving us one more chance.
