Barrel’s Fine Food: A South Philly Family Food Tradition
Story by: Maureen Cunningham / Photos: Provided by Barrel’s
Most Delaware Valley natives alive long enough to remember life before not only smartphones, but also cell and/or car phones, knows that South Philadelphia was always renowned for delicious, authentic Italian cuisine. Long before the hipsters invaded the diverse neighborhoods that border Center City below South Street (Washington Avenue or Tasker Street, depending on who you ask), appetites have been whetted just walking down the street on any given Sunday by the aroma of gravy (yes, I said it) wafting out of homes. Ensconced in this tradition on the corner of a tiny street of row homes on 1725 Wolf Street is Barrel’s Fine Food – a cozy, unassuming BYOB which serves Italian fare that tastes as if it came straight out of one of those neighborhood kitchens. Tom and Maria Franco, along with their two daughters, Natalie and Andrea, own and manage this gem, thus continuing the tradition started decades ago by Tom’s parents, John and Jenny Franco.
Barrel’s tradition of offering homemade Italian dishes dates back to the 1950’s when friends often congregated in John & Jenny’s home for friendly banter and delicious food. Deciding to capitalize on this phenomenon, Johnny “Barrels” (a nickname acquired due to his legendary ability to drink a barrel of beer) and his wife, Jenny opened a corner bar and restaurant on 18th and Sigel Streets in South Philly. Currently, this area is now growing in popularity commonly referred to as Newbold. Family, friends, neighbors, acquaintances all met at this warm and friendly establishment to eat, drink, chat, and socialize. Some 60 years later, this tradition continues.
The fourth of Johnny and Jenny’s six children, Tom decided to reestablish the family business in South Philadelphia. Some of his siblings had already spread the Barrel’s tradition and reputation along the Jersey Shore, but Tom and Marie knew that Barrel’s still belonged in South Philadelphia. Barrel’s Fine Foods opened on July 13, 1992 at 1725 Wolf Street, on the North East Corner of Bouvier and Wolf. The Franco’s have never looked back. Armed with a name customers and locals recognized, along with top quality taste, Barrel’s Fine Food is a South Philly staple.
Barrel’s offers patrons traditional Italian dishes, such as linguine and meatballs, their famous mussels (red or white), and gigantic sandwiches including roast beef, pork, veggie hoagie and chicken cutlets, of course! All of Barrel’s sauces, from their gravies to picante, are homemade and always consistent on the palate. In addition, Barrel’s has varieties of large salads, such as antipasto and Caesar salads with grilled or blackened chicken – which are most popular with customers! Their rotation of soups are second to none! Soup call lists are found behind the counter so regular “soupies” can be called when their favorite soup is being served. Among the most requested are the cream of potato, creamy vegetable tortellini, tomato bisque and beef bowtie. Stracciatelli soup, commonly referred to as “Italian Wedding Soup,” is available daily due to its popularity and classic taste. The menu also has more generic, American type dishes like cheeseburgers and award winning cheesesteaks. Tom and Maria, keeping up with the times, added new cuisine cleverly named for family members or loyal customers such as the Gnocchi Ariana, Franco Favorite Salad, Chicken Dank, and the Fera Rosetta.
Barrel’s boasts a healthy mix of pickup, delivery and catering business, but also has an inviting dining room where patrons are welcomed to bring bottles of their choice. Sitting in the restaurant with family and friends, eating the delicious food, and sipping on red wine will make you forget you are not in your grandmother’s kitchen. But please do not just show up on a Saturday night expecting to eat dinner in the dining room, make sure you call for a reservation because their regular customers show up every week, bottle in hand ready to mimic an at-home experience.
So next time you are in the mood for Italian food, head on over to Barrel’s Fine Food and be prepared to eat, relax, dine, and loosen your belt!
