Explore the Rolling Countryside of Burgundy, France
This guy above, Rick Steves, was my TV binge before Netflix even existed!
Story by Tony West, Submitted Images
Every American who visits France goes to Paris first. (That’s where the airport is.) But the French experience that graces American dining tables doesn’t come from Paris. It’s more likely to travel from Burgundy, France instead. This region of lush rolling countryside has long been a center of prosperity, culture and fashion. This gentle paradise reveals what makes France truly French.
“Destination Burgundy” was presented at The Olde Bar Restaurant in Philadelphia’s Old City as a workshop by The Burgundy Tourism Board and Atout France. Emmanuelle Hézard (pictured) of Bourgogne-Franche-Comté Tourisme introduced seven hosts from the region with different ways to sample its offerings in elegant châteaux, sumptuous hotels, rural landscapes, historic towns, classic cuisine – and fine wines.
Especially the wines. A 30-mile strip of hillside between Dijon (yes, like the mustard), the only city, and Beaune known as Côte d’Or (“Golden Slope”) is the terroir of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes that now drive wine production around the world. Three dozen grands crus outnumber McDonald’s on Côte d’Or, with hundreds of other vineyards at every turn. You don’t have to like wine to love Burgundy – but you need to learn about it to understand this land.
There is much more to see, however, poking around it or simply lolling in luxury there.
Le Richebourg makes an easy introduction to the region. The TGV, intercity high-speed rail service, from Paris to Dijon takes 1 hour and 40 minutes. From there, it is a 20 minute jaunt by private transportation to this intimate 4-star hotel, spa and restaurant. Centrally located, it can arrange tours to wineries and other attractions. For relief of stress, though, stress the “spa” part, where gourmet grooming will soothe you from head to toe. Rooms run $250-500 according to season. Pets are welcome and babysitting is provided.
Food is the right accompaniment to wine in Burgundy, a province famed for its boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin, its escargots, mustard and truffles.
Surrounding Le Richebourg, the adjoining townships of Gevrey-Chambertin and Nuits-St-Georges boast more grapes than people. Vistas of sweeping fields embrace the eye and a winos dream come true!
They are not without accommodations though. These range from affordable family hotels, furnished rooms, bed and breakfasts to campers, tents, tepees and treetops! And there is never a shortage of wine bars.
At Hostellerie de Levernois, near Beaune at the southern end of the Côte d’Or, 5-star comfort is de rigueur. Its restaurant is Michelin-rated as well.
Relax on its capacious grounds – or stroll into town for shopping. A representative will help you plan all tourist excursions. Hostellerie de Levernois is available for $500 a night off season.
Château Sainte Sabine invites entry into the realm of 16th-century nobility. This mansion is worthy of its name. It is nestled beside a canal in Châteauneuf-sur-Auxois, one of the officially named most beautiful villages in France.
Formerly owned by the Dukes of Burgundy, the estate supplies its restaurant from its own organic garden. In winter, a simple room may run a mere $200. On the other hand, if you stay in the reconstructed ducal Salle des Gardes in July, please bring $2,000 to cover the night. You can even get married in the château’s chapel, which once served a monastery.
How to get around? Regional trains run between Dijon and Beaune for a few dollars. Rented cars, motorcycles and scooters abound. But Côte d’Or is so compact that it is ideal for hiking around the forests, fields, wineries and museums.
Or for biking, countryside cycling is quintessentially French. Active Tours offers guided group excursions of four, six and eight days around the region, lodging included – all for around $100 a day. It also offers similar walking adventures.
The wine in Burgundy is excellent. But most of it is not strictly speaking holy. For a sacramental taste, you might make a pilgrimage 60 miles south to Paray-le-Monial. In this small town, rich in gardens and museums, Benedictine monks founded a famous monastery in 973.
A thousand years later, visitors come to absorb its spiritual tradition, drawn by the magnificent Sanctuary of the Sacred Heart as well as the Chapel of Apparitions where St. Marguerite-Marie Alacoque received visions. Their feasts summon hundreds of thousands from afar.
We look forward to exploring more of France hopefully this fall! And of course we’ll be taking you along with us. Stay tuned and until then au revoir!
