As soon as this press trip was in the planning stages, almost everyone started asking me about boobs… “Will you see any? Will you be showing yours?” (Hard no, btw…) Then the bead questions started rolling in as well and what occurred to me is that no one really knows what the hell is going on during Mardi Gras, better known as Fat Tuesday. The French saying refers to events of the Carnival celebration, beginning on or after the Christian feasts of the Epiphany and culminating on the day before Ash Wednesday. There’s also Lundi Gras, the Monday before Fat Tuesday which kicks off that week’s festivities but honestly, these hardcore Southerners throw down all month long… and perhaps the month before and after that, too.
Delving right into Cajun culture was actually on my puddle hopper flight down South via United Airlines connecting through Houston, Texas. This massive airport is almost too much. A brief moment in time connected me and another passenger running for their gate watching service dogs dropping turd bombs on the floor and clueless passengers narrowly avoiding certain shoe stomping and rolling luggage wheels. We pointed it out mid-run to security who joined in on the shit show and hopefully took care of it. By the time we all piled into the tiny, head almost touching the top of the plane, I was ready to sit down and catch my breath. Fortunately for me, I had a nice Southern woman next to me who dubbed herself as the “cool, party aunt” traveling back from Chicago and ready to start her festivities upon landing with Mexican food and margaritas. I instantly liked her and showed her our planned itinerary which she approved of every stop along the way and suggested some more fun stops.
Once we landed, I became fast friends with another blogger on our plane joining the fun, Sharon from DailyDream360.com, a Toronto, Ontario travel and lifestyle blogger. Arriving at the tiny airport in Lafayette, Louisiana, we waited on my forced checked luggage (seriously just include the damn bags, United Airlines… so annoying) and we were on our way to meet our fearless leader Jesse Guidry, VP of communications for Lafayette Travel, who began teaching us about Cajun culture straight away. Almost all the hotels in neighboring New Orleans all the way to two hours west Lafayette were booked up for the party that never stops, but our group was able to stay at the newly constructed Holiday Inn Express in Lafayette West. The rooms were clean, beds were awesome and breakfast every morning made for an enjoyable stay as this was home base for the week (aka crash pad). After we all settled in our rooms and took a load off, we met in the lobby for dinner and at this point I was starving!
Right after dinner, it was time to have some fun and dance off some of that delicious Southern food at the Feed & Seed Bar with live music by Horace Trahan & The Ossun Express. Feed & Seed is a non-smoking, rustic warehouse bar with lounge seating, a large wooden dance floor and an outdoor patio area. Horace Trahan is a world renowned Cajun and Zydeco artist, respected for his ability to pull the hell out of an accordion and belt out vocals that will give you chills. Judge for yourself…
Feeling fine that night, I woke up around 3 a.m. running straight to the bathroom. I knew the feeling well and assumed it was food poisoning or I had picked up some wicked bug on the plane. That morning was super rough for me with not much rest, but being the Type A+ person I am, I couldn’t miss out on the action. So I rallied that morning with my ghost white face and nibbled on bread and tea because next up was Zydeco Breakfast at Buck & Johnny’s with live music by Chubby Carrier. Mardi Gras doesn’t stop even at 8 a.m. at this place that provides a unique Cajun twist on Italian classics featuring locally sourced ingredients featuring Zydeco Breakfast on Saturday mornings.
Everyone else’s looked amazing with Bloody Marys and more flowing, but sadly, the sight of food and sounds were too much for my delicate stomach at this point. So out to the van I went and reclined the seat back after my pathetic breakfast of fruit, bread and ginger ale. I drifted off a few times and told everyone to have fun and not worry about me! Soon the gang was back and vivacious, pumped full of good tunes, booze and delicious Southern food and ready for the next adventure.
Part of the fun of the swamp tour was also listening to Tucker’s stories that were straight out of Crocodile Dundee. Whether you’re interested in photography or a wildlife adventure, your visit would not be complete without an exciting airboat swamp tours and a stop at Turtle’s Bar.
At this point my stomach was starting to grumble with hunger which was a good sign but needed to be cautious so I bought some peanuts as road snacks for the drive to the TABASCO Pepper Sauce Factory. Located on Avery Island, this place looks like something out of Harry Potter especially on our wet, dreary day with the birds flying above and mist rolling off the grass.
Café 1868 is the place to eat at the home of TABASCO® sauce featuring spicy, authentic Cajun dishes and classic Southern comfort food – all seasoned with TABASCO® Sauce. There is also a build your own bloody mary bar to try all the flavors! After our bellies were full, it was time to explore the expansive property.
Tabasco is arguably the best hot sauce and the history behind it is fascinating as well. Learn everything you ever wanted to know about McIlhenny Company, its family, and the history of Tabasco on Avery Island. You could easily spend a full day there wandering around the lush landscape and gardens!
Soon we were back at the home base hotel and I was taking a much-needed power nap to restore myself to normal status. When I awoke, everyone exclaimed how I wasn’t as white as a ghost anymore and indeed I felt human again! Thanks goodness because it was just in time for the Krewe of Bonaparte Parade. In 1972, a new Mardi Gras Krewe was established to help promote the tradition of Mardi Gras in Acadiana and to encourage Lafayette’s young citizens to participate in Mardi Gras.
And just like that, I was ravenous after the floats went by which was convenient because right down the street was our dinner spot! Pamplona Tapas Bar does not mess around. My favorite fine dining restaurant of this press trip, it’s no wonder Hemingway, bullfighting and flamenco vibes abound with superior Spanish wines in Downtown Lafayette. And for all your fancy lushes, they have cocktail happy hour all day Wednesday and Tuesday through Friday from 2-7 p.m.
That night I took a nice hot bath and slept for what seemed like mere minutes before we were back up and at ’em in the morning for… wait for it… more eating! The beds at the hotel are excellent and anymore, that’s what makes up 75% of my ratings because if you don’t sleep well, your day is not enjoyable at all.
Off we went to Social Southern Table & Bar for a DJ brunch. The experience was a stylish Southern scene and hipster haven. Lots of designer duds but also some ironic mustaches and gobs of makeup for brunch. It’s dubbed an innovative place to enjoy locally sourced cuisine, hand-crafted specialty cocktails and real Southern hospitality.
After all that decadent food, I was happy to get some walking in for our next adventure! Even though it was raining out, exploring Vermilionville: the Cajun/Creole/Native American Heritage & Folklife Park was very memorable and a fascinating step back in time. This historic village showcases life in Acadiana from 1765-1890. The location features self-guided tours; costumed, bi-lingual artisans, live music, cooking school, a restaurant, boat tours and a gift shop.
So the next part of our day I was super excited to experience because I love fashion and used to sew a lot! Local Mardi Gras costume maker Robin Miller gave us an eye-opening overview of the tradition of the courir de Mardi Gras as well as the costumes. The Courir de Mardi Gras Mask & Capuchon Workshop gave us a chance to make our own Mardi Gras mask and capuchon (cap) which we could wear during Mardi Gras and take home. Forget the Dollar Store masks you have in mind and learn some real history!
Courir de Mardi Gras is based on old school begging rituals, close to celebrations by mummers, wassailers and Halloween. I’m down for any excuse to dress up and let my freak flag fly! We were all so lit up and inspired by creating our Mardi Gras characters, it was time to celebrate.
Enter Rock N’ Bowl with live music by Chubby Carrier, a one stop dine & rock! We only planned for a little bit of bowling fun… but ended up staying late into the evening enjoying local beer, snacks and more.
We’re pretty sure the plan was to then enjoy a Southern Louisiana dinner at The Sainte Marie then head back to the hotel but we had too much fun bowling! Go with the flow they say… besides we had plenty of leftovers to munch on before bed. After a good greasy diner breakfast in the morning, we were on our way to what Mardi Gras is like in the deep country. Much like the French in France, meat abounds and is not hidden away but rather displayed proudly.
The best way to taste Louisiana is at an old time boucherie (butcher shop). The Lundi Gras Boucherie features dishes prepared by Acadiana’s best chefs. The event takes place every year in Eunice, Louisiana on the Monday before Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday). We were in for a visual treat and also reminded no one packed layers for this! It’s like being in Pennsylvania for winter so pack well.
There was hot chocolate, coffee, booze and light dancing going on, however, we can imagine this place getting pretty lit as the day goes on and the sun goes down. People come from all over the state to camp and party! Soon we were on our way back into town in the toasty warm van with a pit stop to buy more layers, hats and gloves.
I don’t know about you but when I wake up earlier than usual, I am famished by lunchtime. I guess the ol’ furnace kicks on and needs fuel! Pop’s Poboys is a Louisiana classic shop with interesting interpretations and exciting twists on the area’s favorite sandwich plus appetizers, salads, sides and soda and boozy beverages all in a relaxed casual setting.
After we ate, I am always interested in seeing local fashion so was happy we meandered downtown to poke around some shops like Parish Ink and Genterie Supply Co. which offers boutique style Southern fashion.
The party doesn’t stop and we were all set for the Queen Evangeline Parade that evening in downtown Lafayette, Louisiana. The press/VIP booth is set up right behind the photo above with the gold, green and purple tent and if we got there early enough, we were in a prime elevated location to grab some goodies.
With all that bead catching, face dodging and revelry, we worked up an appetite for dinner at Agave, literally across the street from were we were standing. It is dubbed a retreat right in the heart of Downtown Lafayette, bringing together traditional Mexican Cuisine with huge portion sizes. With over 40 of the finest tequilas in the world, this is the perfect location to sit back, relax, and have a margarita on the patio (weather willing).
Then we were off to check out some live music to get a taste of some of the night scene in Lafayette which is my kind of crowd! It was also pretty rad to experience it all with France’s writer for Rolling Stone (which was my dream job as a teenager).
With live music by Brass Mimosa and Sailor Mouth the night we went, Artmosphere would be my go-to place (much like the Grape Room in Philadelphia was for 12 years). It has everything you could want including that neighborhood grill vibe, live music and large outdoor dining space. The old fashioned drinks were flowing and even when my feet decided they had enough, I sat at a booth and grooved to the music. It was hard to peel myself away however we had a full day of fun the next day!
Located in Scott, the boudin capital of the world, Billy’s Boudin serves the most boudin in the area and are known for their fired boudin balls, specialty meats, and fried corn. It was a little much for my bourbon belly from the night before, but the fried food lovers in my group were all over that spread!
And just like that Ossun’s Courir de Mardi Gras began! We were in for a treat and it began at with learning about the Cajun and French culture with an expert.
According to Wikipedia, Barry Ancelet “is a Cajun folklorist and expert in Cajun music and Cajun French. He has written several books, and under the pseudonym Jean Arceneaux he has written Cajun French poetry and lyrics to Cajun French songs”. He would speak French and I would try to decipher what they were saying as all the words had a Cajun Southern twang to them. I can only imagine how horrible my French sounded to… well, everyone! After we learned more about country Mardis Gras it was time to experience it…
Watch the chaos above!
Listen to a traditional French Cajun song above!
After watching so many parades, it was our turn to ride on a float and do the throwing for the Independent Parade which stretches about 3.9 miles through Lafayette’s Downtown and other main streets.
With our workout for the day in place, we were starving and ready to throw down Cajun style for dinner! Randol’s Restaurant with live music by the Cajun Ramblers was totally two steppin’, toe tappin’ and taste temptin’. The place was a nice mix of young and the old folks where you “Laissez les bons temps rouler” (let the good times roll).
And somehow it was all over that night with a flight back in the morning to sunny, warm Arizona. We made some new Canadian friends, some French friends and have a new affinity for Mardi Gras. Check this experience off your bucket list at least once, you won’t regret it!