With newfound horseback riding skills giving me courage from sister ranch White Stallion, I ventured all the way down by the Mexican border to Rancho de la Osa in Sasabe, Arizona, about an hour and a half southwest of Tucson. And when I say by the Mexican border, I mean almost on it. You can see the wall from the ranch through the high desert grassland.
Surrounded by about 120,000 acres of the Buenos Aires Wildlife Refuge, Rancho de la Osa is the most historic ranch in Arizona. You can ride the same trails as U.S. presidents and famous figures like Pancho Villa and check in the rooms where John Wayne and “Gone with the Wind” author Margaret Mitchell stayed. Because the ranch sits at 3,600 feet – a good 1,200 feet higher than Tucson – it’s about 10 degrees cooler than the city with a nice breeze most of the time. So arriving in the middle of July was not that crazy for this East Coaster after all.
About a mile and a half down a dirt and gravel road, you arrive at the entrance to Rancho de la Osa in Sasabe, Arizona.A horse grazes on some feed at Rancho de la Osa.Looking into the space at Rancho de la Osa.Rancho de la Osa means “Bear Ranch” in Spanish.Strange and whimsical, we liked it from the get go at Rancho de la Osa.When driving in, all signs point to the main space at Rancho de la Osa.The communal hacienda at Rancho de la Osa in the middle of the property.If you feel like playing some games, you will find spots sprinkled about at Rancho de la Osa.Part of the rooms to rent at Rancho de la Osa.The ATVs waiting to explore at Rancho de la Osa.I think we fit the maximum people in there which was about 6 adults at Rancho de la Osa.We loved the traditional Mexican style colors at Rancho de la Osa.Inside the hacienda at Rancho de la Osa.The dining room at Rancho de la Osa where we enjoyed delicious buffet meals made with love by Anne at Rancho de la Osa.Additional seating if guests overflowed at Rancho de la Osa.The coffee nook at Rancho de la Osa, always brewing.One of the lounges inside the hacienda at Rancho de la Osa,Bravo, the ham of the dogs, is a salute to the troops at Rancho de la Osa.The back corner lounge connected to the office where we spent a lot of time talking at Rancho de la Osa.A perfect setup for country living at Rancho de la Osa.Jiggs, the lizard eater and true ranch dog, at Rancho de la Osa.Right behind the hacienda at Rancho de la Osa.Peeking through the vines at Rancho de la Osa.Everywhere you looked, it was colorful and beautiful at Rancho de la Osa.The cantina peeking out from beyond the huge agave plants at Rancho de la Osa.The bell for all the meals, we were called like happy cattle at Rancho de la Osa.The cantina is an air conditioned space at Rancho de la Osa.Inside the cantina at Rancho de la Osa.The bar is on an honor system at Rancho de la Osa, you write down what you drank and tally it before you leave.The pool at Rancho de la Osa. Unfortunately it was having algae issues while we were there so didn’t get to use it. When the chemicals were balanced again, it was soon time to go but our California friends got to enjoy it! We also discussed a salt water option which may give them less headaches.Leading to my room for the stay at Rancho de la Osa.This was almost the exact image of my premium king room at Rancho de la Osa. The only thing missing is the European style air conditioning unit they installed on the wall above the closet which was a welcome relief. Rancho de la Osa has 18 adobe guest rooms with Mexican antiques and vintage furniture and there are no room keys meaning you can lock yourself in but not out. Crime is not a problem here. Check out the Instagram stories for a full room and ranch tour! Submitted ImageSoon we were loaded up and onto the ATV to go check out the Mexican border wall at Rancho de la Osa with our lovely host Lynne.
Ross and Lynne Knox are the most relaxed, kind and professional hosts who are your go-to people to do any exploring, riding or anything you need. They are also very modest and living their best almost retirement life at this ranch. Google cowboy Ross Knox sometime… and then bombard him with questions about his quite impressive past. He accomplished more by the age of 17 than most will ever accomplish in their life!
Off we go from Rancho de la Osa to the Mexican border!And just like that, there it was right in front of us. The wall separating Sasabe, Arizona from Sasabe, Mexico that stretches 2.5 miles and stops because of a nearby Indian reservation.The wall was built by George Bush II for cattle and commerce purposes and the barbed wire was added on the American side by President Trump.You can see the end of the wall that touches the Indian reservation here.All the way at the end of the wall, there is plenty of space to squeeze through. Border patrol runs up and down this area all day and night long.Looking in the other direction from where we came. Border patrol agents will use large monster truck sized tires on chains and drag them behind them in their trucks to make footprints more visible next to the border dirt roads.Looking between the metal, you can see a water jug from someone trying to cross the Mexican border.The barbed wire and wall are kind of pointless to keep people and animals out when there are such large gaps of space at each end.Looking to the left, you can always spot Rancho de la Osa with the large collection of trees.By the time dinner rolled around, I was starving and these fall of the bone ribs were outstanding at Rancho de la Osa. I might have went back for seconds and those bacon covered beans too! I asked about iced tea and from that point on, sweet chef Anne made sure to hook me up daily.
I slept pretty well that night. The bed was comfy, the air was cool and I couldn’t hear a thing except silence which was golden. Good thing too because we were going on a group horseback ride that morning with our newcomers, the California family all coming together for a family reunion.
Off we went through the wash at Rancho de la Osa for our morning horseback ride with Ross leading the way even with a twisted ankle from falling on a horse. A true cowboy, he strapped an ankle brace on and grinned and bared the pain. I was matched with Max to ride who was a tall teenager and had spunk.The topiary of the land is so different and green at Rancho de la Osa compared to the desert in Tucson which the horses who grazed enjoyed as well.Some of the unique plants during our ride at Rancho de la Osa.And here’s Max in all his glory at Rancho de la Osa, I swear I always get the funniest horses.We had breakfast after our ride that morning which was fine by me, no need to have things sloshing around at Rancho de la Osa. I ate all the bacon I could stuff in my face hole.Next up on our adventure was an adults only electric bike tour with RAD Power Bikes at Rancho de la Osa.For this portion of fun, wrangler Adam was our host at Rancho de la Osa rocking his cowboy pose. He loves his job and said if he could be in the saddle all day, every day that would be an ideal life for him. For a brief time, Adam went to the tiny school in Sasabe, Arizona as well.But the bike seat was our ride that afternoon and we headed into the tiny town of Sasabe, Arizona for a pit stop on our electric bikes. If you want to stock up on booze, perhaps some michelada would hit the spot!
Sasabe is considered a “hamlet” town with one general store (with gas) owned and operated by Deb, a third generation Sasabe resident. Good for stocking up on snacks or beverages, there is no ATM in Sasabe, so you should bring plenty of cash to tip the ranch employees. Despite being in the middle of nowhere with no cell service for me (I have Sprint), the ranch has good Wifi. If you have time, check out the charming little town of Arivaca on your way back through Tucson.
When asked which way we wanted to ride from the general store, I voted loudly for the border patrol. We were allowed to step through without a passport but no further and couldn’t take photos or video of anything on the American side for security purposes. This checkpoint is the most thorough because it’s lightly used and well manned.The border patrol checkpoint to the left.The border patrol checkpoint to the right. Border patrol agent Baxter was our go-to informative guy who told us tales of children running up and down the top of the wall which is completely legal. He also explained the many devices people would create to get over the wall including cranes and self-built contraptions.Walking inside the gate, we had one foot in Mexico and one in Arizona.Looking into Mexico at border patrol.Welcome to Mexico says this large rock.Just some cattle alongside the road in Sasabe, Arizona.The one room schoolhouse in Sasabe, Arizona. I zoomed back on my fat tire electric bike to the maximum speed of 20 mph. Apparently the taller bikes cleared 25 mph but I was having a good time with some light drizzle in the sky.For lunch that day, it was all American burgers with hot dogs and potato salad at Rancho de la Osa.
After lunch, it was time for me and my horse Max to get more acquainted. He was a good boy before breakfast but he always wanted to dominate, take the lead and run. So I figured I would let him run with me and Adam. Ross agreed on a one hour tour so Adam and I met up after I took a power nap.
All was going well in the wash until we saw some Mexicans from another ranch roping what looked like wild horses and leading them away. Max insisted on following them which began a Cassie vs. Max battle which I was not winning. So Adam and I switched horses and boy was I glad to do so as he had to use his spurs and everything in his wheelhouse to reign that horse in. Max also began being startled at the wild cattle but my new horse, No Name (he was a transplant from White Stallion and no one knew his name yet) was being solid like a rock. I instantly fell in love. We did some runs with No Name and we had our rhythm down pat except the saddle and leg lengths were not fitted for me and my legs were flopping around, which is not safe nor can you steady your body by putting your feet forward in the stirrups. And there was no way Adam could help out with Max throwing his temper tantrums. So we headed back early and I loved on my new No Name horse for being so good, giving him oats and scratching him with wire horse brushes.
Soon after, we explored the other end of the wall that afternoon on the UTV. Other explorations include seeing ruins of a 19th century town and nearby petroglyphs which we did not get to do this time around. You can see it all on our Instagram stories!
Dinner that night was Thanksgiving style which is my favorite meal of the year at Rancho de la Osa. All the carbs, please!Cheesecake for dessert at Rancho de la Osa. Rumor has it half the year a pastry chef comes to cook too and fattens everyone up!
The California family was animated that night and talking about singing songs that night at karaoke in the cantina and I mentioned they should make a song about Rancho de la Osa. Lo and behold someone already did named Dan O’Rourke and the whole table began singing it, with YouTube accompaniment of course. Give it a listen below!
And if that wasn’t whimsical enough, there was a double rainbow happening right afterwards. We all ran outside with cameras in our hands, oohhhhing and ahhhhing over nature’s beauty.
Double rainbows after dinner at Rancho de la Osa made for a blessed evening.Then the sunset hues started fading in at Rancho de la Osa.No editing needed, this is all nature at Rancho de la Osa.And those heavenly shades of pink and purple at Rancho de la Osa.Outside the cantina that night, you can practice your bull roping at Rancho de la Osa or join the California family for some karaoke… which I did and sang “Achy Breaky Heart” that got everyone country line dancing!An early night for everyone led to delicious crepe style pancakes and ham and cheese omelettes in the morning for breakfast at Rancho de la Osa. My jeans were getting tighter and my shorts would no longer button… worth it!Up and at ’em after breakfast for my last ride at Rancho de la Osa next to the stables.Remember this horse, we’ll call him Blondie. Funny that I took this photo…Ross rode this donkey with its unique stripes and stunning appearance at Rancho de la Osa. Adam said they are the most grounded animals.We went on a more steep, rocky terrain this time at Rancho de la Osa with a smaller group of more experienced riders. No Name was actually named Boone (like Boone’s Farm wine) and preferred to be behind this mare who was not sold on his affections.We stopped at the top of this lookout to check the saddles and make sure everyone was doing well at Rancho de la Osa.Views for miles at Rancho de la Osa.Adding horse photography while on a horse to my resume for the California family at Rancho de la Osa!Both Boone and I were looking around as this was all new terrain to him as well, he was used to the desert at Rancho de la Osa. We saw a pair of dust mop looking camouflage slippers by the trail and were told that’s what refugees will wear across the border so you can’t see footprints.Since Boone was the new kid on the block, when he would get near the other males like this one eyeing us from in front, they would start competing. So I had to reign him back behind the mare but soon the three boys (including Blondie from the photo above) were trying to assert dominance. Blondie decided to kick a left leg back at Boone and kicked me in the ankle instead which is why you always wear cowboy boots. It just left a nasty bruise thank goodness.Hopefully Boone is adjusting and being accepting into this new band of horses. Lesson learned on my part, don’t be so stubborn and insist on riding the new kid on the block! Listen to your hosts, they know best. But also listen to your intuition if you don’t feel your horse is a good fit. And ladies, cut your fingernails before riding. Trust me!
Right after that, I scarfed down some lunch, got an ice pack to go for my left ankle and was off on another adventure to explore Joshua Tree State Park in California. Ross and Lynne seemed sad to see me go but asked me to visit them which I will when I have time and hopefully get to ride Boone again. Yeehaw!
