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Explore Islas Marías, Former Prison Islands in Nayarit, Mexico

Story, photos by Cassie Hepler

If you have a dark edge to your soul like me, this all-the-feels Islas Marías (Mary Islands) will resonate well. I have this new thing I do, where I say yes to everything and figure it out later. This trip was one of those yes moments while I was still on a private press trip to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. I had no clue what I was agreeing to but I’m always up for an adventure, twice if I like it. Here’s the thing about Mexico: it’s got a bad rap in the United States even though honestly, the United States is starting to have that Divided States of America feeling and people are realizing maybe it’s not all that and a bag of chips like we were sold growing up. Yes, there is a whole different police presence with visible, large guns in Mexico however please stop acting like ‘Merica is so legit and their police and government are not corrupt. I felt safe as can be the whole time, even more so on this island exploration!

After zooming there at the crack of dawn from exploring other areas of Nayarit, Mexico, we made it in the nick of time to catch the boat to Islas Marías. It was once called Islas Marías Federal Prison until February 18, 2019 when President Andrés Manuel López Obrador ordered the closure. Since the military has its hands in Mexico tourism as of a year ago, this place runs like a smooth, timely ship.

The islands make up an archipelago in Mexico, consisting of four islands located in the Pacific Ocean, some 100 km (62 mi) off the coast of Nayarit and 370 km (230 mi) southeast of the tip of Baja, California. The first European to encounter the islands was Diego Hurtado de Mendoza, a cousin of Hernán Cortés in 1532, who gave them the name Islas Magdalenas. In 2010, they were dubbed Islas Marías Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO.

All aboard the Islas Marías boat! Drug-sniffing dogs made their way through our bags before we were allowed to board. That’s our luggage in a perfectly military line.
Inside the boat was pretty comfortable to Islas Marías. Guests found their numbered seats and hunkered down for a long ride, about 3 hours to get there. Some seats had electrical outlets and it seemed an upgraded class was above us. Snacks were available to purchase and they included a bagged lunch which after my 3 a.m. cleanse, I gobbled down and passed out.
There was an old movie on the televisions along with a Marvel film dubbed in Spanish on the boat to Islas Marías. I was nodding on and off.
After what felt like the longest boat ride ever because I was not feeling well, we arrived to see land at Islas Marías. Thankfully I had slept off some of the funk and was feeling more like myself again.
But before we could head toward the island, everyone had to wash off our shoes like Jessica from Uprooted Traveler. It is a very eco-conscious island.
The beautiful blue water was beckoning me to jump in at Islas Marías.
Sensing our lust for the ocean, we were told tales of sharks surrounding Islas Marías and not to swim at the dock.
Crystal clear pristine water at Islas Marías and not one piece of trash. Heavenly!
Waking up out of my fog, I was getting excited to see more of Islas Marías. These sculptures were sprinkled around the island’s hub.
We were huddled together here at Islas Marías and were given instructions and rules, military style.
Then we were set free to check in our rooms and explore the island for a bit at Islas Marías. My room was #6 as seen here.
Make sure to pull the shades down tight at Islas Marías to keep the room cool. It came with a small fridge as well.
The bed that my picky back liked in Islas Marías. It’s always a gamble and sometimes the 5 star places do me in! The bed was made much nicer than this with tight edges, I hobbled it back together after I realized I forgot pics.
It also came with bunk beds for friends or kiddos at Islas Marías. The military corners are much more like what my bed was like.
There was a small kitchen as well at Islas Marías with coffee, however water was not available in the rooms to drink. They had refillable water jug stations for that.
The saving grace in Islas Marías! We were there in the hot season so this was as low as it goes with a remote control.
Artwork in a box by my bed in Islas Marías.
There were shelves for storing things in Islas Marías.
The tiny shower adorned in seashells at Islas Marías. There’s not much luck shaving your legs here!
Basic toiletries at Islas Marías, there was a body wash in the shower as well. But bring your own shampoo and conditioner and if you forget something, they have a little military style store to grab forgotten or needed items.

This was my first time in a self-described hostel (although others said it’s certainly not a hostel), the bed was just right for my picky back and cooling AC mounted to the wall, European style. Everything is all-inclusive for around $350 for 3 days 2 nights with a chow-hall style breakfast, lunch and dinner, the boat to and from the island with a light lunch snack and drink, tours around the island and a day playing at the playa (beach). Make sure to bring cash, preferably pesos and a water bottle to refill at stations around the space. There are artisans and a general store if you’re missing anything as well as a gift shop for those souvenirs.

I poked around the check-in center that housed some hand crafted items in Islas Marías.
It’s always nice seeing what the locals are making in Islas Marías.
I really liked this beaded fox in Islas Marías but no way it would fit in my luggage.

The handmade art will forever remain engrained in my memory. So many craftsmen and women selling their wares of various kinds, not the junky tourist trap shop goods you normally see.

The view you see when you first walk from the boat in Islas Marías. Checkin is right next to this on the right, the Centro de Atención al Visitante (CAV).
The church looking majestic in the background in Islas Marías.
All aboard the bus at Islas Marías with our trusty military tour guides to see Balleto Sur (Panteón, Museo, Celdas y Artesanos). As suspected, they did not like lateness. I’m in the straw hat to the left, the saving grace of my pale skin.
Our first tour of the island was the cemetery at Islas Marías.
Back in my goth days, I used to hang out in cemeteries a lot. These were different, less fancy than in central Pennsylvania and so white!
An angel looks over the cemetery in Islas Marías.
I made a scaly friend who almost blends in at Islas Marías.
The green and white of the cemetery in Islas Marías.
These iguana looks like he lost his tail in a fight in Islas Marías. Another one was bobbing his head at us which meant he was mad we were in his space on our way out.
A metal cross in Islas Marías.
I enjoyed shooting around the cemetery in Islas Marías, it was peaceful and calm with an odd history.
Next up, La Reserva at Islas Marías.
An open air building in Islas Marías.
The front was very picturesque in Islas Marías.
The interior courtyard in Islas Marías. Each doorway led to history lessons of this strange, beautiful island.
A sad tale of suicide in Islas Marías.
A random dead crab by the steps, way too far from the ocean in Islas Marías. It was probably a snack for some other creature.
A desk once used with the best views in Islas Marías.
I loved this ceiling architecture art in Islas Marías.
Picture perfect views in Islas Marías with those open window.
We walked over to some of the cells right next door in Islas Marías.
I couldn’t imagine this was comfortable in Islas Marías.
A piece of the past artwork also remains in Islas Marías.
Imagine using the bathroom in that hole that would stink up the cell in Islas Marías.
This was the only window in Islas Marías.
The front door of the cell in Islas Marías.
We then proceeded to browse the artwork before dinner in Islas Marías.
Soon the sun started setting in Islas Marías.
The flag blowing in the wind at Islas Marías.
The subtle art was a theme in Islas Marías. The building in the back is the general store.
Facing the ocean was the stone artwork in Islas Marías.
Turtles swim inside the fountain in Islas Marías.
This was our chow hall for breakfast, lunch and dinner with specific times in Islas Marías.
Wifi was hard to maintain in Islas Marías but your best bet was the chow hall.
Inside was open seating, buffet style with wait staff in Islas Marías. There was also a bar for those who want to imbibe with $3 US beer.
In the cooler months, you can sit outside in Islas Marías.
And enjoy the ocean views at Islas Marías.
There was a very dramatic sunset that night that I ran outside to catch in Islas Marías.
The view from the top of our hostels in Islas Marías. Wowzers!
That night we went on a walkabout to see the inside of the church at Islas Marías and visit Balleto Norte (Muros de Agua, Henequenera, Casa de la Monja).
Birds flew around the inside in Islas Marías.
This statue was the last thing I really saw before I ran back to my room, barely making it for another cleanse in Islas Marías. I gave up at that point, got a shower and went to bed praying I’d be able to join the 5 a.m. hike to next morning!
We were up and kind of at ’em in the morning to hike to El Christo in Islas Marías.
It’s been a while since I’ve seen the sunrise. I think I would do early morning hikes more often if I could sleep before midnight!
After a pretty intense vertical incline, we made it to El Christo in Islas Marías. There are benches to rest on the way however take it easy if you’re not an avid hiker.
My first full view of this statue in Islas Marías.
Just when you think you’re done going up, there’s more steps to the top of El Christo in Islas Marías.
Some of my amigos enjoying the view in Islas Marías like Light Travels Faster.
Dramatic views worth the hike in Islas Marías.
Behind El Christo in Islas Marías.
In case you were wondering what religion the island is in Islas Marías. You can see the dock where we came in, Port of Balleto.
In case you wanted to learn more about this concrete statue that is still unfinished in Islas Marías.
One more view before we descended down which was much easier in Islas Marías. I will still remember my amigos legs quivering!

Hiking to el Christo made me hate early mornings a little less! One tip I can give is don’t push yourself too hard. The humidity combined with the sharp increase in altitude makes this vertical incline quite a challenge. There are benches set up for resting points but if you are not in good shape, I would take it easy. But those views are worth it!

Brunch of champions back at the chow hall in Islas Marías. I enjoyed all the fresh fruit daily and lots of protein options. Those are plantains in the middle with some pancakes for carbs.

After brunch it was beach time at Chapingo with its magical gradients of blue and turquoise water. I so enjoyed playing in the playa (beach) and enjoying my favorite Mexican beer, Bohemia.

Just breathtaking at Islas Marías.
To the left, rocky cliffs at Islas Marías.
And to the right, where we were going to enjoy the afternoon at Chapingo in Islas Marías.
This is helpful if you get disoriented easily like me in Islas Marías.
Delving into a sober curious lifestyle lately, I had to have some of my favorite beer on this beautiful beach day in Islas Marías. Lifeguards watched swimmers nearby and we were all careful to return our bottles in one piece.
I was dying to get in there and swim around in Islas Marías.

I was able to use one of those full face Teletubbies masks and do some snorkeling and then a Navy Seal pops up, watching me out of nowhere and helping hold my wonky mask back to shore. You are certainly safe on this island that’s for sure.

Everyone was having a great time in the ocean by Islas Marías and no one wanted to leave.
There was a tent set up for us as well where Tabitha Lipkin enjoyed a lounge in Islas Marías.

Soon we were loaded up back in the bus for the next tour of Punta Halcones (Laguna del Toro, Mirador Punta Halcones, Camaronera, Salinera y Calera). And in stark contrast with all our good beach vibes, we visited Punta Halcones, the closed Mexican Alctaraz with very heavy energy next.

Murals were located all over the island to portray history in Islas Marías.
No one is allowed unescorted on the island in Islas Marías for some obvious reasons.
Everybody jumped off our fancy bus and into the weird vibes in Islas Marías.
Walking straight inside, this was a typical cell block and a prisoner’s whole life in Islas Marías.
Hauntingly lit up in Islas Marías. If these walls could talk…
Situated outside, this was the only form of exercise and movement outside of their cells in Islas Marías.
Inside a cell which I did not want to walk inside in Islas Marías.
The showers with nozzles built inside the metal so inmates couldn’t hang themselves in Islas Marías.
Tabitha sitting and absorbing all the strange energy in Islas Marías which is how we all felt.
Our trusty guide Fernando explained how there were riots and the women had to flee to the mountains for safety in Islas Marías. He was our favorite guide because of his dark, dry humor.
Afterwards we were glad to get out of there and shake off all those bad vibes in Islas Marías by absorbing these epic views.
Photographer Mark Ward walks back from exploring in Islas Marías.
To the right in Islas Marías as someone uses their drone. Looks like I need to invest in one too!
Our next stop, a salt factory in Islas Marías.
The moon and stars started peaking out in Islas Marías.
Talk about a picture perfect framing in Islas Marías!

We were able to sleep in until 5:30 a.m. the following morning for a way less strenuous hike to El Faro, the lighthouse which also has terrible tales of murder and mayhem. Mind you, we were probably in bed by at least 10 p.m. so I was actually able to fall asleep fast after so many adventure days. It catches up with you! And also why you should keep in shape and train… I use the stairclimber and elliptical at the gym for these very reasons as well as strength training. Press trips are usually non-stop, all day action and are most definitely NOT a free vacation as people like to think. It is work 24/7 and then even more when you return home!

My second sunrise in ages at Islas Marías.
I could get used to this in Islas Marías if I had a hiking group!
A good view of the lighthouse that was once home to a family, all murdered in Islas Marías.
Looking toward where our hostels are at Islas Marías.
You can kind of see el Christo far off in the distance in Islas Marías. We hiked that!
A metal box torture chamber that hits the rising sun perfectly so prisoners sizzle in the sun at Islas Marías.
Fernando is also an artist and gave us all art gifts as we departed ways that morning in Islas Marías. Thank you!
A close up of the lighthouse as we left Islas Marías.
We checked out shortly thereafter and I wanted to explore some more while we waited for the boat to be ready in Islas Marías.
This was part of the night tour that my stomach made me miss at Islas Marías. I’m guessing it’s much better in the daytime!
A close up of the namesake mural on Islas Marías.
A whole building with a grand piano housed murals in Islas Marías.
Telling tales of history in Islas Marías.
The Mayan calendar in Islas Marías.
A close up of the Mayan calendar in Islas Marías.
Looks like Nelson Mandella in Islas Marías.
A whole story unfolds here in Islas Marías.

Islas Marías certainly has that dark history tourism vibe set among pristine, ecological beaches. So buckle up buttercup for an interesting rad ride! If you don’t want to come home after a trip, that’s a good sign your soul resonates with the people and places. I was certainly a crying mess leaving my A-team of journalists but now those memories are forever cherished in my heart. Thank you Visit Nayarit for somehow pulling off the largest and dopest press trip ever. Let me know when the reunion tour is, I’ll be there in a heartbeat!

Soon we were back on shore with this statue portraying my feelings in Islas Marías.
We grabbed our luggage and said goodbye to the boat in Islas Marías.
Then we loaded up the van for the final adventure in Nayarit, Mexico with Haley from Ottawa Life Magazine leading the way.

Isla Maria’s pier Puerto Balleto is a town in the municipality of San Blas, Nayarit, located in Isla María Madre, the largest of Islas Marías archipelago. Puerto Balleto is also the main and largest settlement of the Islas Marías Federal Prison. Its population reaches up to 602 inhabitants and includes administrative offices and primary centers of commerce and recreation. The penal colony is governed by a state official who is both the governor of the islands and the chief judge. The military command is independent of the government and is exercised by an officer of the Mexican Navy. The port will only be growing as time goes on and the infrastructure expands.