The Big Island Secrets of Hawaii

Story by Irina Abraham, photos by Irina Abraham and Keoni Abraham

Is anyone else dreaming of Hawaii out there like I used to? All the beautiful images we see on Instagram with the beaches straight out of a fantasy movie, rainbows that seem to invite unicorns, gorgeous people shaking out their lush hair in slow-motion under the heavenly waterfalls. Don’t you just want to be one of those lucky ones sprawling on a pristine beach, sipping coconut water straight out of the shell?

Well, I know I did. But it wasn’t only that, it was the mysticism and the romanticism of the islands: the magic, the energy, the spirits, and the rich culture and tradition.

Let me start by saying that Hawaii is all that and more. It’s the “more” that I wish I had been prepared for.

They say the islands call you. It may sound silly, but this was exactly how I experienced it. An idea settled somewhere in my heart and mind: I needed to visit Hawaii. 

I started searching the Internet for suitable options. My family and I live in a short converted school bus and the idea was to rent something in Hawaii for the winter, find jobs, and do the nomad thing: explore a new place for a few months. We pitched the idea to a pair of nomad friends – adventurous souls who we wanted to launch an art project with and slowly but surely our plans morphed into something new. We decided to volunteer on the island, offering healing arts workshops at a beautiful Nature Retreat and Learning Center called Earthsong nestled in a lost corner of the Big Island. The Earthsong stewards were looking for volunteers and they found us – an eager and adventurous bunch, who they lovingly called a circus.

The moment the airplane landed, my eyes filled with tears: the Big Island looked and smelled like an otherworldly place. Our first few days were filled with sun and sea, and our hopes were high.

However, we soon discovered that the particular spot we were staying at was graced with the presence of the wind goddess. We had been warned before we went, but only once we were there, were we able to understand what it meant to have the wind goddess as your neighbor. Oh, she was mighty! So much so, that the roof of our son’s little hut got blown off. Our own roof, made from the light, polycarbonate material so common in the area, rattled so hard, we had to climb up to attach a few extra screws to keep it in place. 

And then came the rains. The downpour lasted for days on end and it seemed we didn’t have a single item of dry clothing as the moisture got everywhere. It seemed it went as deep as our very souls. 

Ka’u County, near the southernmost tip of the Big Island, is rather remote and rural. You’d find a few tiny grocery stores here and there, but most people make big shopping trips into Kona, to hit larger grocery stores for some basics.

Since we were stuck inside in the rain anyway, a trip to Costco sounded like an awesome adventure. Lo and behold, forty minutes into our drive towards Kona, we stopped by another grocery store, in Captain Cook. And suddenly… We were in a different world. The sun was shining and we were sweating in our jeans and long sleeves. The temperature was at least ten degrees higher there and the sun was out! This was because there were eight climate zones on the Big Island. And you guessed it, we didn’t get the best one. 

The Kona side of the island is warm and dry. In the next two months, we discovered that, even when it was cold and rainy where we were, Kona was always warmer and sunnier. If you went to the Hilo side of the island, you’d discover a very humid climate. It rains a lot there but it’s also warmer. And the southernmost tip, where we were, and where people went to visit the famous South Point for its spectacular sunsets and cliff jumping, as well as one of the four in the world Green Sand beaches, had rather temperamental weather with rains, winds, and beautiful sunny days all mixing in unpredictable ways.

So, if you’re thinking of visiting the Big Island in the winter – choose wisely. If you want to be warm and dry, the Kona side of the island is your friend. If, however, you are the adventurous kind, go to the Hilo side, and here is why.

The Puna district of Hilo is known for its bohemian, artistic vibe. The town of Kalapana is the home to the Painted Church and the less-known Sunday drum circle – a free-flowing event with ecstatic dances and drumming on a lawn with a gorgeous view of the ocean. We also accidentally found a hidden-from-view black sand beach. In the spirit of Punaverse, as the locals called it, the beach was full of nude people, enjoying the huge waves and the hot sand, eating from a food stand up the hill, the earthy scent of marijuana hovering over the people and the sea.

 In 1990, lava flows from Kīlauea brought destruction to the town of Kalapana. Now, the lush green of the wild jungle runs to the black of the lava, that, in its turn, meets the blue and bubbly white of the ocean. When I was there, I felt the collision of the mighty energies of fire and water in my bones. It seemed those engaging in ecstatic dance on Sunday events did, too.

There are numerous waterfalls and glorious beaches on the Hilo side. If you prefer to keep warm and dry, you could always stay around Kona and make trips to see all the beautiful places the Big Island has to offer.

But be advised, traveler! The Big Island is hardly a tourist resort. The island is a sacred place and this fact is not to be ignored. Without sounding “woo,” I sincerely offer you my perspective. This place is here to challenge us, its spirits don’t tolerate idle curiosity. If you plan to visit this very special place, ask yourself, why. The Big Island, or the way the natives call it, the Island of Hawai’i can stir up your uncertainties and fears, forcing you to face your deepest self.

One of the locals we met, a native Hawaiian practitioner who came to bless the land of the retreat we were staying at, explained that the special energy of the island was called mana. She taught us to approach nature with reverence, asking permission before entering the waters or visiting a volcano. If your mind tells you that these are silly superstitions, think of it this way: being present with a place you are at and engaging with it thoughtfully instead of “consuming” nature mindlessly as we so often do, will only enhance your experience.

Believe it or not, the rains ceased and the sun came out on the day of the blessing and the good weather lasted afterward. Coincidence? Magic? I think aligning the energies is a real thing, and believe that the blessing did that for us and the land. 

When on the island, the best thing you can do for yourself is to connect with the locals. They are the ones who will tell you about the special hidden places to visit, and most importantly – how to get there safely. Be respectful and mindful, explore fearlessly.

You might wonder by now, would the author tell us the names and the coordinates of the hidden gems? The answer is no. The reason is simple: the Island of Hawaii is not a place for bored tourists. Finding the hidden places is part of the adventure and keeping them to yourself afterward is your pledge of respect to the island and its people. Trust yourself, flow with mana, and have an amazing adventure.

To learn more about my Hawaii adventure, visit my blog for Verge Travel Magazine.