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Portland, Oregon Chef Kyo Koo opens Asian-American Warsugai Restaurant

Story, photos and video by Cassie Hepler

In the USA, there’s always gotta be a scapegoat. I’m not sure exactly why but I have a feeling capitalism has something to do with it – if you keep pointing fingers elsewhere, citizens won’t realize what the government is actually up to. During Covid, it was Portland, Oregon‘s turn apparently with all the bad news media portraying homelessness and druggies piled in the streets. Whatever media it was – owned by whatever corporation and their self-serving agenda – pushing that this was a lawless state with a bad rap. A growing amount of Gen Z is not believing the hype, and rightly so… thus why the US government is not enjoying boots on the ground style see-for-yourself live feeds, views, videos and unbiased information sharing on TikTok. With no corporate entities to control the narrative, Americans are waking up. Boo freaking hoo, ‘Merica… it’s about time for a remix. Which brings me to my own story of seeing Portland, Oregon for the first time myself – with no bias or questionable front-loading. I’m more of a I-will-decide-for-myself kind of gal and don’t believe the hype. It’s the journalist in me.

Mind you, I drove in previously that week after a shit show flight experience and I was hauling ass in the rain to my first destination which was South of the city. So when I returned after multiple delightful experiences, it was kind of exploring Portland in reverse. For a much-needed break in content creation, I had booked my own hotel for a night with my Marriott Bonvoy points at a Courtyard by Marriott in Beaverton. Slightly Southwest of the city, it is an up and coming neighborhood with a lake right across from the hotel including large pine trees, plenty of grass and some narly construction happening which left the largest screw next to my rental care tire but fortunately no damage. I checked in quickly and was able to lay down for about an hour before I was on the road again… into the heart of the city this time!

The entrance to Courtyard by Marriott in Beaverton, Oregon.
My whip for the week with the lake in the background across the street at Courtyard by Marriott in Beaverton, Oregon.
Tucked back in the parking lot to the left was a whole plaza filled with food if you really didn’t want to move far from your hotel room at Courtyard by Marriott in Beaverton, Oregon.
Driving into Portland, Oregon from a stopped in traffic moment out the driver’s side window.
Yes, I saw homeless just like any other major US city in downtown Portland, Oregon. And in this street scene, the problem with America in one image… notice the wheelchair. Disabled citizens are not respected in our country.
A tent scene under the bridge in Portland, Oregon just like any other major US city. The problem is capitalism not homelessness.
I arrived early to dinner that evening at Warsugai, 727 SE Washington St, Portland, OR 97214, and was able to snag the spot right in front of the restaurant. I felt safer here than I did at points living in Philadelphia.
Stepping inside Warsugai is a whole vibe with the sunlight streaming through the windows!

Opened in January 2024 in Southeast Portland, Eater has already called Warsugai one of the best new restaurants. This space serves nostalgic Asian-American dishes in a relaxed space with a retro Hong Kong neon vibe. Opening his first restaurant is Chef Kyo Koo, a longtime Portland chef with a background in fine dining, alongside his brother-in-law, Alvin Wong. Chef Koo draws inspiration from his upbringing, which revolved around Korean cuisine at home and cherished family outings to iconic Portland-area restaurants such as Shanghai Noble House, Chen’s Dynasty, and Lin’s China Jade. These cherished memories serve as the driving force behind Warsugai, where Koo infuses classic dishes with his own creative twist, each serving as a heartfelt homage to the flavors that have shaped his culinary journey.

Warsugai’s dishes are crafted through Koo’s innovative culinary lens with a focus on carefully sourced local ingredients. The menu is accompanied by a thoughtfully curated drinks program overseen by General Manager Tak Ogihara that features craft beer and sake, food-friendly wines and outstanding Asian-inspired cocktails.

A retro velvet lounge space is available if that’s more your vibe at Warsugai.
With an open theater kitchen, you can say hello to the chefs at any time at Warsugai.
A solid selection of sake is available with some of my favorites at Warsugai. I love a good, cloudy unfiltered sake!
Loving this art on the wall at Warsugai.

Immediately obsessed with the only sake made in Oregon, Momo Kawa at Warsugai.
So creamy and delicious, the Dungeness Crab Long Rangoon to start at Warsugai.
The most delicious dumplings, Noble House Pork Potstickers at Warsugai were the soul food you didn’t know you needed.
A view from my table of at Warsugai right after they opened for the evening.
A peek outside the window at Warsugai. It was at this time everyone kept saying to me be careful… it’s dangerous there, etc. as if I didn’t live in Philly for 12 years. Barely a human walking in sight! It was quiet, clean and quite serene.
A sweet lychee cocktail to begin dinner at Warsugai with the sunlight making it glow.
Even the Taishan cauliflower at Warsugai was rich in flavor and will make any picky eater enjoy their veggies!
Sizzling Ribeye Bulgogi always hits the spot at Warsugai! If you have a picky eater, this is a good go-to dish with some rice. Who doesn’t love a pile of perfectly flavored meat? Well besides vegetarians or vegans… they have those options too.
Hand pulled cabbage with sichuan peppercorn was a hearty snack in itself at Warsugai.

Enjoying some Dreamy Clouds light dry nigori that yes, looks like what you think it does at Warsugai. That is ice inside the hole to keep it chilled. I am not a fan of hot sake and usually restaurants heat it to hide the cheap house flavor!
The namesake dish, a Midwestern tradition where Warsugai means almond fried chicken. Outstanding alone or with rice!
The Kampong shrimp at Warsugai was so crispy and delightful. All these food photos are making me mad hungry again!
Last but not least, my cloudy sake for dessert at Warsugai. They had just opened and were still sorting out the menu but this Sayuri is one of my faves!
And a pretty sunset to end the evening at Warsugai. It was at this moment I realized I had lingered a long time and was stuffed to the max because Chef Koo is a feeder! He also gave me some foodie recommendations for my next stop on my road trip to Cannon Beach, Oregon which I took to heart. That’s the kind of travel I enjoy, learning along the way and following referrals! Wishing bright blessings to your new space team, thank you for taking good care of me.